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Karl's Gym 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Chris Vandiver and Royal Robbins, summer of 1973 (not Karl Hammer, 1974?)
Page Views: 1,600
Submitted By: Brian Quiter on Jun 30, 2002

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Moving out over the roof on Karl's Gym (.10d)

Description 

Karl's Gym begins as a clean fist crack through the first roof. Higher up, the crack becomes thinner and more fractured as you pull through the second crux.

Protection 

Gear to 2.5", there are three rap bolts shared by "Hanz and Franz" at the top. To top rope, either hike all the way around the rock, (which is pretty far either way you chose) or first climb one of the easier climbs to the right, then reach the bolts from above. About a 20' sling will help reduce rope drag.


Photos of Karl's Gym Slideshow Add Photo
Hitonmi struggles at the Pwerful Crux of "Kar...
Hitonmi struggles at the Pwerful Crux of "Kar...

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By Aron Quiter
Administrator
From: Oakland, CA
Oct 9, 2002
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

The initial crack section of this route is a great overhanging workout.

Lotsa work for a 5.10d!
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Sep 29, 2003
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

The climb as described seems off. I jammed a few flakes with handjams to reach the first roof, whereupon I had a hard time getting anything larger than my second knuckle in. I'd call it a slanting fingercrack through a roof, really, with a few "super secret" hidden jugs and a few thin hands jams here and there, after the first crux (10d). The upper crack is a wide stem area with nice layback holds (10b). The 3-bolt anchor up top goes fine with a cordalette or a few 2' slings. Short people (_ 5'5") can pull through the roof into a funky leaning sloper lieback which gets "good" when you paste a foot out right onto the flake just below the lip and reach for the good hold/crack.

Fun, but not a classic. There are better lines at the cliff.

A fair 10d where I am from, but might be harder than other climbs of the same grade at this cliff. Very hard for shorter people.
By caughtinside
From: Oakland CA
Apr 17, 2007

physical roof pull down low. I didn't find the hidden jugs and went with my old standby, the desperation lunge.

upper crux is a little easier, but the stem is pretty slick.

I followed this. My partner led it, and took a couple falls on the low crux. He only had a yellow alien, and a top piece red alien in. Every time he fell, the lead end clipped back into the yellow alien, 3x in a row, so we had to throw a locker on there to keep it out!
By Joe Dawson
May 12, 2009

I too disagree with the official description of the climb. The lower part consists of a couple of face moves up to a roof with a leaning off fingers crack above it it. This aint no fist crack.
By tallmark515
From: San Francisco
Jul 20, 2009
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

Onsight. Great route! As mentioned above, pulling the first roof is definitely the crux of the route. Easy face climbing for 10' leads to the first roof (.10d), finger sized cracks in the bottom of the roof will help you leverage yourself while seeking good locks above the roof. Seek out the hand jam (and hidden jug... if this is what the above poster is referencing), get your right foot up and work the crack (I liebacked it) until you hit the solid hand jam. Short but sweet.

Second section, .10c, involves a few lieback moves on a great (yet polished) vertical lip of a crack. Work the crack with a few jams until you hit the jugs up high.
By Chris Vandiver
Jul 14, 2011

For history's sake, The first ascent of this climb(Karl's Gym)was done by Chris Vandiver and Royal Robbins in the summer of 1973. It was done while traveling through the Donner Summit Area while we were conducting a Rockcraft climbing seminar.
By 213blc
From: THA WEST COAST
Aug 14, 2012
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

The crux pro is bomber provided you are diligent in your rope management and prevent the feared Z clip. Great pumper of a route with a cool change of style up high.