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Karen Rock
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Karen Crack 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: unknown,1970's
Season: year round
Page Views: 1,814
Submitted By: Rick Shull on Oct 6, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (18)
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BETA PHOTO: Jim Hammerle leading Karen crack. Moonstone beach,...

Description 

Route starts up huecos left of prow, then up finger crack with chimney finish. Classic Moonstone lead. Karen rock also has many toprope variations and a good traverse along the base.

Location 

Karen rock is the largest formation at Moonstone beach. Karen crack is obvious line left of the prow. Walk off.

Protection 

Medium cams in pockets at start, finger size cams/nuts, run out the short chimney. Bolt anchor, bring long slings for toproping.


Photos of Karen Crack Slideshow Add Photo
Mike Constantine starting Karen Crack.
Mike Constantine starting Karen Crack.

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By DJ Reyes
From: Northern Nevada
Jul 10, 2010

Led this route July 7th 2010 on a beautiful day. Got to the top and belayed up a couple of friends just as the sun set. I don't know of a more serene setting for rock climbing.
By Tom Fralich
From: Fort Collins, CO
Sep 6, 2011

Four stars for setting and fun juggy climbing. A good lead if passing through the area.
By Floyd Hayes
Jul 30, 2013

Steep and challenging but well protected for a 5.8 lead. Fabulous!
By Benjamin F
From: Arcata, CA
Aug 12, 2013
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

i just want to recommend that anyone leading on karen should do so with caution. the rock is fairly soft.
sew it up generously and/or don't plan on whipping on it.