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 ADVANCED
Butcher's Branch
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
All The Right Moves S 
Bag, The T 
Bicycle Club S 
Boing S 
Bourbon Sauce S 
Control S 
Flight of the Gumbie S 
Green Piece, The S 
Hardcore Female Thrash S 
Jumpin' Ring Snakes T 
Just Another Glitch T 
Kaos S 
Lost Souls S 
Low Voltage S 
Ministry S 
Mo' Betta' Holds S 
Play it by Ear S 
Sancho Belige S 
Springer S 
Stop Pulling My Ear (Arppeggio) S 

Kaos 

YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 45'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Cosby '91
Page Views: 738
Submitted By: Ladd Raine on Aug 24, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (12)
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Ian Pohowsky making the starting moves on Kaos loo...

Description 

If bouldery climbing with plentiful kneebars is your style, try Kaos on for size.

This climb starts with a slab move, but quickly gets into the business. From a big layback extend up and right to catch a jug and make you crss-over clip then work over right move into two kneebars and up some crimps, deadpoint up to a horizontal then to another above that, handjams are there, but feet are bad. Make a terrible move out left to a sidepull horn, clip the fourth and last bolt then gun up and right to a jug and three more moves in the 5.10 rnage will bring you to the anchors.

Location 

3rd route right of Flight of the Gumbie.

Protection 

4 bolts to shuts.


Comments on Kaos Add Comment
Show which comments
By camhead
From: Vandalia, Appalachia
May 23, 2011

really good route; better than the two stars the guidebook gives it. Definitely don't blow the last clip.
By BrianWS
Aug 1, 2013

A medium sized cam (green or red) can help reduce the consequences of falling short of the final clip.
Also, there is hidden 'treasure' just below the anchors... kudos to whomever was shameless enough to purchase it!