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London Wall
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Dream Speed 
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KAOS 

YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 6a [details]
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Submitted By: jt512 on Mar 27, 2007
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Description 

Hard start leads to fun semi-classic moves all the way to the anchors.


Location 

Directly to the right of The Labyrinth.


Protection 

Bolts.



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By jt512
Administrator
Mar 27, 2007

Although KAOS is rated 5.11b in the guidebook, I agree with Chris Miller's comment to the Labyrinth listing that KAOS is harder than Labyrinth, which is my benchmark for 5.11c. On the other hand, KAOS is easier than Furry Pump, my benchmark for 5.12a. Therefore, I rate KAOS 5.11d.

By C Miller
Administrator
Mar 27, 2007
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- E4 6a

Somewhat reachy at the crux, which may make it harder for shorter climbers, but after that it's casual to the anchors. Labyrinth was more like 5.11b, but the extension bumped the difficulty up slightly. This route seems no harder than Guilty Being White or Bottled Violence, and easier than High Jack and Impossible Concentration.

By mark maynard
Jul 3, 2008

kaos was the only bolted route left of the totem pole for some time until dream speed was established
it originally finished on the labs anchors, before the straight of longer finish was dug out
a proper opening for the original finish went wanted a few years and lab was the result

back then furry pump was a gimmie compare to the pursuit
what a difference a letter grade makes