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Arch Rock
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Arch Rock Direct 
Arch Rock Route 
Cake Walk 
Death by Drowning 
Dorsey-O'Donoghue Direct 
Hollow Flake 
In Two Deep 
Kansas Honey 
Middle Dihedral 
Middle Meanie Crack 
Mighty Young Joe aka Captain Fist 
Obscura Direct 
Right Meanie Crack 
Smiley Face 
Staircase, The 
Village Idiot 
Waiting for Staircase 1-3 
Waiting on a Resolution aka Unknown 
Waiting on the Staircase aka Unknown 2 
Zamboni Man 
Zorro's Cave 

Kansas Honey 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a

Type:  Trad, Sport, TR, 3 pitches, 115'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Leonard Coyne and Ed Russell, 1980
Page Views: 395
Submitted By: David Reuille on Jul 11, 2012
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BETA PHOTO: Looking down from the bolts on the middle route, w...


The first pitch is bolted. **Use a 70 meter cord to lower. Pitch 2 & 3 are both trad and summit the rock.


This is the second bolted route right of The Staircase. Start just right of a pine tree.


The 1st pitch has 8 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor. A 70 meter or double rope rappel needed. The 2nd and 3rd pitches require a set of stoppers and cams to 3 inches.

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By Stewart M. Green
Apr 28, 2003

The left-hand route is called "Kansas Honey" and was first climbed by Leonard Coyne and Ed Russell in 1980. Originally done as a 3-pitch route to the top of Arch Rock, it had minimal protection for many years. Now the first pitch is well-protected with added bolts. The other routes were put up in the 1980s but I can't recall the route names or who the climbers were...

By Jordan Hirro
From: Colorado Springs/Glenwood Spri
Nov 9, 2013

Pretty fun slab actually. It surprised me a bit. It seems like the bolts kinda wander, but don't worry, they lead you in the right direction. You can use a #2 if you'd like at the last left-facing bulge at the top. Definitely a 70m for rap.