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Arch Rock
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In Two Deep 
Kansas Honey 
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Middle Meanie Crack 
Mighty Young Joe aka Captain Fist 
Obscura 
Obscura Direct 
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Smiley Face 
Staircase, The 
Village Idiot 
Waiting for Staircase 1-3 
Waiting on a Resolution aka Unknown 
Waiting on the Staircase aka Unknown 2 
Zamboni Man 
Zendance 
Zorro's Cave 

Kansas Honey 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, TR, 3 pitches, 115'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Leonard Coyne and Ed Russell, 1980
Page Views: 389
Submitted By: David Reuille on Jul 11, 2012
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BETA PHOTO: Looking down from the bolts on the middle route, w...

Description 

The first pitch is bolted. **Use a 70 meter cord to lower. Pitch 2 & 3 are both trad and summit the rock.


Location 

This is the second bolted route right of The Staircase. Start just right of a pine tree.


Protection 

The 1st pitch has 8 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor. A 70 meter or double rope rappel needed. The 2nd and 3rd pitches require a set of stoppers and cams to 3 inches.



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By Stewart M. Green
Apr 28, 2003

The left-hand route is called "Kansas Honey" and was first climbed by Leonard Coyne and Ed Russell in 1980. Originally done as a 3-pitch route to the top of Arch Rock, it had minimal protection for many years. Now the first pitch is well-protected with added bolts. The other routes were put up in the 1980s but I can't recall the route names or who the climbers were...

By Jordan Hirro
From: Colorado Springs/Glenwood Spri
Nov 9, 2013

Pretty fun slab actually. It surprised me a bit. It seems like the bolts kinda wander, but don't worry, they lead you in the right direction. You can use a #2 if you'd like at the last left-facing bulge at the top. Definitely a 70m for rap.