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 ADVANCED
Arch Rock
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Arch Rock Direct T,S 
Arch Rock Route T 
Blackjack T 
Cake Walk T 
Death by Drowning T,S 
Dorsey-O'Donoghue Direct T 
Haircase T 
Hollow Flake T 
In Two Deep T 
Kansas Honey T,S,TR 
Middle Dihedral T 
Middle Meanie Crack T 
Mighty Young Joe aka Captain Fist T 
Obscura T 
Obscura Direct T 
Persistence S 
Pride of Sweden S 
Right Meanie Crack T 
Smiley Face S 
Sprout Route T 
Staircase, The T 
Village Idiot S 
Waiting for Staircase 1-3 S 
Waiting on a Resolution aka Unknown S 
Waiting on the Staircase aka Unknown 2 S,TR 
Zamboni Man S 
Zendance S 
Zorro's Cave T 

Kansas Honey 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, TR, 3 pitches, 115'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Leonard Coyne and Ed Russell, 1980
Page Views: 578
Submitted By: David Reuille on Jul 11, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (11)
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BETA PHOTO: Looking down from the bolts on the middle route, w...

Description 

The first pitch is bolted. **Use a 70 meter cord to lower. Pitch 2 & 3 are both trad and summit the rock.

Location 

This is the second bolted route right of The Staircase. Start just right of a pine tree.

Protection 

The 1st pitch has 8 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor. A 70 meter or double rope rappel needed. The 2nd and 3rd pitches require a set of stoppers and cams to 3 inches.


Photos of Kansas Honey Slideshow Add Photo
Ashley nearing the top of Kansas Honey (from Zamboni Man/Hollow Flake anchors).
Ashley nearing the top of Kansas Honey (from Zambo...

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By Stewart M. Green
Apr 28, 2003

The left-hand route is called "Kansas Honey" and was first climbed by Leonard Coyne and Ed Russell in 1980. Originally done as a 3-pitch route to the top of Arch Rock, it had minimal protection for many years. Now the first pitch is well-protected with added bolts. The other routes were put up in the 1980s but I can't recall the route names or who the climbers were...
By Jordan Hirro
From: Colorado Springs/Glenwood Spri
Nov 9, 2013

Pretty fun slab actually. It surprised me a bit. It seems like the bolts kinda wander, but don't worry, they lead you in the right direction. You can use a #2 if you'd like at the last left-facing bulge at the top. Definitely a 70m for rap.