|a. Beginning of cliff to Gelsa
Climb easy 5.5-ish blocks to a pair of fixed pin anchors at the base of the roof crack. From here, a series of jugs, underclings, slopers, and yes, even a few jams will get you to the lip of the roof.
The obvious roof crack right as you enter the Near Trapps.
The roof had four very fixed stoppers in it as of May, 2009, with one pin at the end. For an anchor, you may want 1-3 camalot, but it is almost easier to untie, walk around and down-aid to clean this thing.