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| Select Area... Abraxas Wall Bakery Big Brain Cam Burns Area CB's Love Muscle Cirque of the Climbables (aka The Tombstone), The Crusty the Clown Fickle Finger of Fate Gatherer Canyon Happy Turk Hoodoo Homer and Marge Ice Cream Parlor Isolated Climbs Kyle's Tower Moonflower Canyon Mt. Everest Pensive Putterman Power Line Buttress , The Predator Tower Scorched Earth Crag Shelbyville Space Tower Area Stimulants Wall |
DescriptionKane Springs Canyon has lots of varied climbing. Many Cutler hoodoos line the road and provide strange short climbs like mini Fisher Towers. The Ice Cream Parlor is entirely a trad area (as far as I know) on good rock on Navajo and Wingate formations, with lots of possibilities for future hard free and aid route development. Routes on various crags range from 5.8 slabs/cracks to 5.12- and C2 grade IV climbs. Primitive camping areas are located along the roadside near some of the crags, and there is a potable natural spring 2.2 miles into the dirt road. BASE jumpers frequent the Tombstones and are fun to watch, or you can do one of the long trad or free routes on them. Getting ThereFrom Main Street Moab (US 191), head west on Kane Creek Blvd from the McDonald's on the south end of town, or intersect Kane Creek Blvd from 400 North. Head north as you leave town, under the east-facing cliffs above town, and past the scenic chairlift. The road continues north and then turns south as it passes the Portal and parallels the river for three miles (paved), opposite Wall Street. Mark distances for rocks from the cattleguard about 3 miles along the south portion of the road, where pavement ends. A high-clearance 2WD will make the road with no problems. Expect switchbacks, graded speedbumps (difficult for low-slung vehicles), and big rocks in the roadway. The ClassicsMountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Kane Springs Canyon:
5.6 Corner 5.6 Trad, 50 feet Ice Cream Parlor
Black Slab 5.6 Sport, 50 feet Ice Cream Parlor
Crack 3 5.8 Trad Ice Cream Parlor
Critical Mass 5.8 Trad, 1 pitch, 60 feet Ice Cream Parlor
Wolverine 5.8 Trad Ice Cream Parlor
Deep Voodoo 5.8 C2 Trad, Aid, 4 pitches, 380 feet, Grade V The Cirque of the Climbable...
Crack 2 5.8+ Trad Ice Cream Parlor
Hallow Souls 5.9 Trad, 2 pitches, Grade II Space Tower Area
A Good Day to Die 5.9 Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet Ice Cream Parlor
The Kind 5.10a Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet Isolated Climbs
Unknown 5.10- R Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet Moonflower Canyon
Hot Karl Sunday 5.10c Sport, 90 feet Ice Cream Parlor
The Screamin Demon 5.10+ Trad, 3 pitches, 400 feet, Grade III The Power Line Buttress
Playing Hooky 5.10d C2 Aid, 4 pitches, 375 feet, Grade IV The Cirque of the Climbable...
Ice Cream Parlor Crack 5.11- Trad, 1 pitch, 70 feet Ice Cream Parlor
Dark Path 5.11b Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 80 feet Scorched Earth Crag
T-Rex 5.11c PG13 Trad, Sport, 4 pitches, 350 feet, Grade III Ice Cream Parlor
Xylokane 5.11d Trad, 1 pitch, 70 feet Abraxas Wall
Corner Route 5.12- Trad, 5 pitches, 400 feet, Grade III The Cirque of the Climbable...
Featured Route For Kane Springs Canyon
Corner Route 5.12- UT : Moab Area : ... : The Cirque of the Climbable...
The line follows the right facing dihedral to the notch between the first and second tombstones.Start below and to the right of the dihedral in a 3 inch wide horizontal crack. A 5.8 traverse to a drilled 2 pin, chain anchor. (Pitch 2) Continue up the dihedral in a 4 inch wide 5.7 low angle crack to a four bolt belay. (Pitch 3) Excellent fingers and tricky stemming to a drilled pin belay make this the best 5.10+ pitch in the canyon. (Pitch 4) More fun wide crack (5.9) to a three pin belay. (Pitc...[more] Browse More Classics in UT
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