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Kancamagus Crags

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Bear Mountain Slab 
Crack In The Woods 
Found Ledge 
Lincoln Crag 
Lost Ledge 
Mount Huntington 
Mt. Hedgehog (East Ledges) 
Painted Walls 
Rainbow Slabs 
Square Ledge (Mt Passaconaway) 
Sundown Ledge Area 
Woodchuck Ledge 
Rest Day:
Nearby Mountain Bike Rides

The Dude Abides
Great technical singletrack that tests your trail riding skills. Near Franklin, NH
Page Hill Loop
An awesome climb to Page Hill on technical singletrack. Near Franklin, NH
Tent Boulder Trail
Awesome trail features make a great woods ride. Near Berlin, NH
High School Loop
Fast singletrack and forest roads with a long, fun descent. Near Berlin, NH
Mineral Site Trail
A fun singletrack descent on the lower section. Near Berlin, NH
Kettle Ridge Trail
Tight switchbacks and interesting terrain make for an epic descent. Near Berlin, NH
From MP's sister site: MTB Project

Kancamagus Crags  


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Location: 44.0058, -71.2406 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 170,894
Administrators: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Robert Hall, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Jay Knower on Aug 18, 2009
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BETA PHOTO: Map of Kancamagus Crags

Description 

The Kancamagus Crags Area comprises all of the cliffs on the eastern end of the Kancamagus Highway. This includes: Sundown Ledge, Woodchuck Ledge, Painted Walls, Rainbow Slab, and many other less-visited cliffs spread throughout the woods. Greens and Owl's Cliffs, though prominently visible from the Kanc, have their own sections since they are best approached from Sawyer River and Bear Notch Rds.

Many of these crags are singularly interesting. Combined, this area represents a worthy destination in its own right. From the steep sport climbs at Sundown's Main Cliff, to the splitter crack of Crack in the Woods, to the easy but incredibly runout climbs of the Rainbow Slab, the Kancamagus Crags have enough rock to entertain every climber.

Getting There 

The Kancamagus Highway runs east-west through the middle of the White Mountains. Most of the climbing is concentrated on the eastern stretch of the highway, about 10 miles from the town of Conway.

The Albany Covered Bridge is a good reference point. This connects the Kanc with Passaconaway Road (aka Dugway Road), on the other side of the river. Many areas are approached off Passaconaway Road.

Reference 

The area is well covered in Ed Webster's Rock Climbs in the White Mountains. Ed devotes over 100 pages to this area.

Jerry Handren's North Conway Rock Climbs finally does justice to this area by including great photos, good directions, and thorough route descriptions.


Climbing Season



Weather station 6.5 miles from here

191 Total Routes

['4 Stars',16],['3 Stars',84],['2 Stars',55],['1 Star',23],['Bomb',4]
['<=5.6',36],['5.7',23],['5.8',24],['5.9',14],['5.10',17],['5.11',23],['5.12',22],['5.13',5],['>=5.14',2],['',0],['<=V1',1],['V2-3',4],['V4-5',8],['V6-7',10],['V8-9',1],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Kancamagus Crags:
Rock Garden    5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c     Trad, 2 pitches, 110'   Sundown Ledge Area : Sundown Ledge - Lost Horizo...
Perfect Wave   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 3 pitches, 200'   Rainbow Slabs : 4. The Perfect Wave Slab
Rattle Can   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   Lost Ledge
Firebird   5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 2 pitches, 125'   Woodchuck Ledge : The Zonkers Wall
Found Arch   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 110'   Lost Ledge
Classic Rock   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 80'   Sundown Ledge Area : Sundown Ledge - Lost Horizo...
Rough Boys   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   Sundown Ledge Area : Sundown Ledge--Main Cliff
Crack In The Woods   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Trad, 70'   Crack In The Woods
Vultures   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Trad   Sundown Ledge Area : Sundown Ledge--Main Cliff
Agent Orange   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   Sundown Ledge Area : Sundown Ledge--Main Cliff
Screaming Yellow Zonkers Crack   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Trad, 1 pitch, 90'   Woodchuck Ledge : The Zonkers Wall
The Promised Land   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 60'   Sundown Ledge Area : Sundown Ledge--Main Cliff
Steamroller   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   Woodchuck Ledge : The Caterpillar Wall
Romper Room   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   Sundown Ledge Area : Sundown Ledge--Main Cliff
The Big Rip   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport   Sundown Ledge Area : Sundown Ledge--Main Cliff
Eyeless in Gaza   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Sport, 1 pitch   Sundown Ledge Area : Sundown Ledge--Main Cliff
Confederacy of Dunces   5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b     Trad, Sport, 70'   Sundown Ledge Area : Sundown Ledge--Main Cliff
Big Papa   5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b     Trad   Sundown Ledge Area : Sundown Ledge--Main Cliff
Mithras   5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b     Sport   Sundown Ledge Area : Sundown Ledge--Main Cliff
Yellow Matter Custard   5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c     Sport   Sundown Ledge Area : Sundown Ledge--Main Cliff
Browse More Classics in Kancamagus Crags

Featured Route For Kancamagus Crags
The Promised Land angles left over big holds, hits...

The Promised Land 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a  NH : Kancamagus Crags : ... : Sundown Ledge--Main Cliff
This is the somewhat traversing line to the left of Eyeless in Gaza that makes use of the obvious sharp fin about midway up the wall. Although it doesn't see nearly the attention that Eyeless does, it's a really good route and a change of pace at Sundown, where relatively juggy climbs can be hard to come by. Start up the same chimney as Eyeless, then traverse left, using the obvious shelf for your hands and some small feet. Pull an awkward mantel onto the shelf, then continue working up and left...[more]   Browse More Classics in NH

Photos of Kancamagus Crags Slideshow Add Photo
Swift River  Photo by Loran Smith
Swift River Photo by Loran Smith
The Albany Covered Bridge
The Albany Covered Bridge
This is the view from Sundown's Alcohol Wall. The ...
This is the view from Sundown's Alcohol Wall. The ...

Comments on Kancamagus Crags Add Comment
Show which comments
By Kayte Knower
Aug 18, 2009
The Kancamagus Crags are little pockets of wilderness climbing along the Swift River in the White Mountains. While Sundown Ledge sees more consistent traffic than the rest of these crags, the area as a whole offers a remote climbing experience compared to the usual NH destinations of Cathedral, White Horse, and Rumney.

The approaches to many of these crags are hard to find and strenuous. (Despite repeated attempts, no one I know has actually made it to Crag-Y.) However, this adventurous hiking is well worth the effort as the area offers a variety of classic cracks, engaging mixed routed, and steep bolted lines. Some of the more remote cliffs are home to five-star granite routes that see few ascents, and the rock here still carries the flavor of an untouched line--grainy, rain-washed, and brushed with lichen.
By David Aguasca!
From: New York
Oct 9, 2009
Thanks for combining these, Jay!
By amy colburn
Jul 1, 2010
Crag Y is well worth the hike. Been there many times.
By Jay Knower
Administrator
From: Campton, NH
Jul 2, 2010
Hi Amy. You should add Crag Y to the database. I think it would be a useful addition.
By john strand
From: southern colo
Jul 2, 2010
Ah Yes, the great crag Y- Might scare some people now, lotsa old pins !!!!! and the SHE-RA a real 10d
By Patrick Feeney
From: hartland vt
Sep 7, 2010
i was wondering if anyone could help me.im coming through the K and i was wondering how far is the bridge when you get on the K from Loon mountain side.i wanna climb lost ledge,and was wondering is the bridge on your left or right from the way im coming
By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Sep 7, 2010
The bridge would be on your left. I don't know the milage , though I bet you could figure it out from a map.
By Patrick Feeney
From: hartland vt
Sep 8, 2010
thank you for your help
By joshua corbett
From: Wolfeboro NH
Sep 2, 2013
Can an Administrator sort these routes when they get a chance