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Kancamagus Crags 


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Administrators: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Tom Erickson
Submitted By: Jay Knower on Aug 18, 2009

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The Albany Covered Bridge

Description 

The Kancamagus Crags Area comprises all of the cliffs on the eastern end of the Kancamagus Highway. This includes: Sundown Ledge, Woodchuck Ledge, Painted Walls, Rainbow Slab, and many other less-visited cliffs spread throughout the woods.

Many of these crags are singularly interesting. Combined, this area represents a worthy destination in its own right. From the steep sport climbs at Sundown's Main Cliff, to the splitter crack of Crack in the Woods, to the easy but incredibly runout climbs of the Rainbow Slab, the Kancamagus Crags have enough rock to entertain every climber.


Getting There 

The Kancamagus Highway runs east-west through the middle of the White Mountains. Most of the climbing is concentrated on the eastern stretch of the highway, about 10 miles from the town of Conway.

The Albany Covered Bridge is a good reference point. This connects the Kanc with Passaconaway Road (aka Dugway Road), on the other side of the river. Many areas are approached off Passaconaway Road.


Reference 

The area is well covered in Ed Webster's Rock Climbs in the White Mountains. Ed devotes over 100 pages to this area.

Jerry Handren's North Conway Rock Climbs finally does justice to this area by including great photos, good directions, and thorough route descriptions.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Kancamagus Crags:
Razor Crack   C1     Trad, Aid, 2 pitches, Grade II   Sundown Ledge Area : Sundown Ledge--Main Cliff
Rock Garden    5.4     Trad, 2 pitches, 110 feet   Sundown Ledge Area : Sundown Ledge - Lost Horizo...
Perfect Wave   5.7     Trad, 3 pitches, 200 feet   Rainbow Slabs : The Perfect Wave
Firebird   5.7+     Trad, 2 pitches, 125 feet   Woodchuck Ledge : The Zonkers Wall
Southern Migration   5.9 PG13     Trad, 5 pitches, 600 feet, Grade II   Mount Huntington
Ace of Spades   5.9+     Trad, 1 pitch, 100 feet   Woodchuck Ledge : The Zonkers Wall
Rough Boys   5.10a PG13     Trad, 1 pitch, 60 feet   Sundown Ledge Area : Sundown Ledge--Main Cliff
Kennel Boy   5.10a     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 60 feet   Sundown Ledge Area : Sundown Ledge - Lost Horizo...
Crack In The Woods   5.10c     Trad, 70 feet   Crack In The Woods
Vultures   5.10d     Trad   Sundown Ledge Area : Sundown Ledge--Main Cliff
Agent Orange   5.11b     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 90 feet   Sundown Ledge Area : Sundown Ledge--Main Cliff
Screaming Yellow Zonkers Crack   5.11c     Trad, 1 pitch, 90 feet   Woodchuck Ledge : The Zonkers Wall
Dikenstein   5.11c     Sport, 1 pitch, 40 feet   Sundown Ledge Area : Sundown Ledge--Main Cliff
The Promised Land   5.12a     Sport, 60 feet   Sundown Ledge Area : Sundown Ledge--Main Cliff
Romper Room   5.12a     Sport, 1 pitch, 60 feet   Sundown Ledge Area : Sundown Ledge--Main Cliff
The Big Rip   5.12a     Sport   Sundown Ledge Area : Sundown Ledge--Main Cliff
Eyeless in Gaza   5.12b     Sport, 1 pitch   Sundown Ledge Area : Sundown Ledge--Main Cliff
Confederacy of Dunces   5.12c     Trad, Sport, 70 feet   Sundown Ledge Area : Sundown Ledge--Main Cliff
Mithras   5.12d     Sport   Sundown Ledge Area : Sundown Ledge--Main Cliff
Yellow Matter Custard   5.13a     Sport   Sundown Ledge Area : Sundown Ledge--Main Cliff
Browse More Classics in Kancamagus Crags

Featured Route For Kancamagus Crags
love crack. the whole thing doesnt fit in the photo

Love Crack 5.12b  NH : Kancamagus Crags : ... : Sundown Ledge--Outback Clif...
Climb the right leaning crack on amazing and fun jams to crack's end. Start as low as possible down there. When the crack ends face climb straight up (crux) to a bolt around the corner. Two options exist from here, climb the left face up to the top or continue up the right face and cracks to a shallow tip layback corner and a thin face moves. Lot's of great climbing! Pine tree anchor. I didn't see a bolt anchor. ...[more]   Browse More Classics in NH


Photos of Kancamagus Crags Slideshow Add Photo
Map of Kancamagus Crags

BETA PHOTO: Map of Kancamagus Crags

This is the view from Sundown's Alcohol Wall. The Kancamagus highway can barely be seen snaking through the White Mountain National Forest.

This is the view from Sundown's Alcohol Wall. The ...

Swift River  <br />Photo by Loran Smith

Swift River
Photo by Loran Smith



Comments on Kancamagus Crags Add Comment
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By Kayte Knower
Aug 18, 2009

The Kancamagus Crags are little pockets of wilderness climbing along the Swift River in the White Mountains. While Sundown Ledge sees more consistent traffic than the rest of these crags, the area as a whole offers a remote climbing experience compared to the usual NH destinations of Cathedral, White Horse, and Rumney.

The approaches to many of these crags are hard to find and strenuous. (Despite repeated attempts, no one I know has actually made it to Crag-Y.) However, this adventurous hiking is well worth the effort as the area offers a variety of classic cracks, engaging mixed routed, and steep bolted lines. Some of the more remote cliffs are home to five-star granite routes that see few ascents, and the rock here still carries the flavor of an untouched line--grainy, rain-washed, and brushed with lichen.

By David Aguasca!
From: New York
Oct 9, 2009

Thanks for combining these, Jay!

By amy colburn
Jul 1, 2010

Crag Y is well worth the hike. Been there many times.

By Jay Knower
Administrator
From: Plymouth, NH
Jul 2, 2010

Hi Amy. You should add Crag Y to the database. I think it would be a useful addition.

By john strand
From: southern colo
Jul 2, 2010

Ah Yes, the great crag Y- Might scare some people now, lotsa old pins !!!!! and the SHE-RA a real 10d

By Patrick Feeney
From: hartland vt
Sep 7, 2010

i was wondering if anyone could help me.im coming through the K and i was wondering how far is the bridge when you get on the K from Loon mountain side.i wanna climb lost ledge,and was wondering is the bridge on your left or right from the way im coming

By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Sep 7, 2010

The bridge would be on your left. I don't know the milage , though I bet you could figure it out from a map.

By Patrick Feeney
From: hartland vt
Sep 8, 2010

thank you for your help