|Kanaranzi Buttress (South Face)
The roofs and arete add more exposure than you usually find here. There is a dihedral at the junction of the south and east faces. Climb the corner up to the first roof, go right, then up the east-facing crack to the upper roof (which can easily be made harder, but hardly made easier).
Start on the south face near the corner, its pretty hard to miss.
I would have a lot of large pro. Up around the second roof there is a beautiful pothole you can thread with a sling. There is another large pothole that can be slung for an anchor. Better yet, just walk around back, climb the fairly easy Class 3 chimney to set up a top-rope.
Joe Mokrycki leading Kanaranzi Corner at the first...
Kanaranzi Corner - Photo taken on 06/07/07 by Joe ...
Joe Mokrycki nearing the top of Kanaranzi Corner
|By Sam Smolnisky|
From: Sioux Falls, SD
Sep 23, 2011
I didn't have anything bigger than a #3 C4 when I lead this, and it forced me to run it out between roofs. At the second roof, above the place where you can thread a sling, I found a small pocket crack that fit a #2 Master Cam. I felt better about that placement than the sling. To each their own
|By Pete Hunt|
Mar 13, 2014
I wasn't super psyched on this lead. The crux at the top is difficult to protect and would be kinda ugly even if your pro held. Good route, but maybe better as a top rope.