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 ADVANCED
Kanaranzi Buttress (East Face)

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Crack, The T,TR 
Crazy Crack T,TR 
Guillotine, The TR 
Kanaranzi Right TR 
Purgatory T,TR 
Stairway to Heaven TR 
Stairway To Hell TR 

Kanaranzi Buttress (East Face)  


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Administrators: Kris Gorny, Chris treggE, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Ian Harmon on Jun 6, 2006
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Description 

The east face of the Kanaranzi Buttress contains several high quality climbs ranging from 5.7 to 5.11. Including the classic lead Crazy Crack (5.7), and the classic top rope routes Kanaranzi Right (5.9+), and Purgatory (5.11a). The bottom of this area is protected from the sun, although the top halves of the climbs do see sun throughout most of the day. The top of the cliff sees plenty of sun as well, so the sunscreen might come in handy while setting up top ropes. The placements tend to be a bit spread out in this area, so bring plenty of webbing for the top rope setup.

Getting There 

From the parking lot off Rock County Highway 8 take the main paved pedestrian/bike path. One approach is to take the trail the spurs off at the outhouse. Follow this trail to the base of the cliff and continue to the right for about 100 yards to the base of Kanaranzi Buttress (South Face) and continue right another 25 feet to the face of this buttress. Another alternative it to take the next trail after the outhouse, this cuts a direct line to the East Face of the Kanaranzi Buttress.

Top Access/Descent: The easiest access to the top is a third class chimney just left (south) of Triple Chockstone at the south end of Kanaranzi Buttress (South Face).

Climbing Season



Weather station 2.2 miles from here

7 Total Routes

['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',2],['2 Stars',3],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',2],['5.8',0],['5.9',2],['5.10',0],['5.11',3],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Kanaranzi Buttress (East Face):
Crazy Crack   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 50'   
Kanaranzi Right   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     TR, 1 pitch, 60'   
Purgatory   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, TR   
Browse More Classics in Kanaranzi Buttress (East Face)

Featured Route For Kanaranzi Buttress (East Face)
Annette toproping Purgatory between showers at Blue Mounds Gathering June 2007

Purgatory 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c  MN : Blue Mounds SP (Luverne) : ... : Kanaranzi Buttress (East Fa...
A classic harder route at Blue Mounds. Begins in a square black niche about 15 feet right of Crazy Crack. Climb straight up a broken crack system over several small roofs. The Falcon Guide (Mike Farris) suggests possibly moving left. Straight up past an obvious 2 foot long roof crack feels more appropriate....[more]   Browse More Classics in MN

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