|Sunshine Buttess (aka Wichita Wall)
This is an amazing, mixed line that begins with a steep, bolt protected face that trends into an awesome, right-facing corner/crack, protected with excellent natural gear. The route begins mid-cliff and is accessed via 2 routes below. This has great moves on a super-fun line, one of the best in the 10 Mile.
To access this line, climb either Scotch on the Rocks or the first pitch of Jack Straw and belay in a large crack/ledge with a 2-bolt anchor. If accessing via Scotch, climb the 5.7 slab to the anchors and continue climbing, trending up and left, passing a small face/overhang to the belay stance. If accessing via Jack Straw, climb the 5.10 past 3 bolts to the slab above. Pass the 2-bolt anchor and trend up and right (50'), passing the dead tree, on unprotected slab (5.5) to the belay stance.
A single 60m rope rap from the anchors will put you back on the belay ledge. A second rap will get you back to the deck. Be careful with the first rap, it is possible to rap off the ends of your rope!
2 bolts, Camalots #0.3 to 3 (possibly a double set of #1-3, depending on your comfort), and a 2-bolt anchor near the end of the corner.
|By Mike Bannister|
Jul 21, 2013
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
A single 60m will NOT get you down to the belay, at least mine didn't. I tried and had to crawl back up to the intermediate anchor 40' below the top anchor. Plan on 3 raps with one 60.
Great route. If you're not climbing 5.10 on gear, don't let the grade scare you off, the crack is around 5.8+.