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Spire five
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Beethoven's Fifth 
Kampsite 
Splinter direct 

Kampsite 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c R

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8- French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: VS 4c [details]
FA: Bob Kamps, H & J Conn
Page Views: 458
Submitted By: Eric Krantz on Aug 24, 2010
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BETA PHOTO: The notch you belay in is way at the top right jus...

Description 

The Kampsite spire is the furthest east spire in the cluster between Eyetooth and the Spire 6 mass.

Belay from the notch between the Kampsite spire and it's neighbor to the west, a small notch with loose flakes and chockstones. You can approach this from the Spire 5 Goat Route, then climb over up and down little spires towards Kampsite until you reach the notch. Can also approach from the 5-6 gully.

A little ledge on Kampsite leads around the slightly overhanging north side to a good crack with old piton. Some protection there (#3 cam, smaller nuts/cams above), then runout about 30 feet of 5.4/5.6 to the top on solid large crystals following path of least resistance. No anchors, long webbing required. Double rope rappel if you go into the 5-6 gully.



Photos of Kampsite Slideshow Add Photo
Looking into the 5-6 gully from Kampsite
Looking into the 5-6 gully from Kampsite
C-dog starting the runout section
C-dog starting the runout section
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By Mike McNeil
From: Spearfish, South Dakota
Sep 2, 2010

Nice job.