A nice, long route on the N face of Spire 4 that deserves more attention. The first pitch is somewhat dirty, but with more traffic, it could clean up pretty nicely.
P1 - Starting at the lowest toe of rock on the N face, link together crack systems traversing back and forth a bit. Belay (gear) in an alcove at the beginning of a large chimney system. You might have to work a bit for the pro, but it's there. (5.8+, ~175')
P2 - Begin up the chimney system, trending left into some offwidth and fist-sized action in the back of a deep cleft. Wriggle onto the summit and belay. (5.8, ~150')
Hike just past the N side of the 3/4 gully to the toe of Spire Four's N face. A fixed pin should be visible from the ground and will get you headed in the right direction.
Doubles from tcu's to #4 Camalot. A #5 and #6 can be placed on P2.
First pitch has a few fixed pins.
BETA PHOTO: Spire 4 North Face
M. McNeil photo
Line taken on the first pitch.
|By Mike McNeil|
From: Spearfish, South Dakota
Apr 10, 2012
I'm pretty sure the 6 came in handy on that one as well.