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Rubaiyat Spire
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East Face 
Kamps Route 

Kamps Route 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8- French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: VS 4c [details]
FA: Bob Kamps, Mark and Beverly Powell, August 1966
Page Views: 406
Submitted By: Chris treggE on May 22, 2012
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The councilman signing the summit register. Looks...

Description 

This is a well protected but still somewhat spicy lead up the north face of the spire. Follow discontinuous cracks up the vertical face until a large ledge when it is possible and logical to traverse left into an rightward arching chimney. Make your way up this chimney and consider belaying your second from the top of the flake to lessen rope drag. The second pitch (if you choose to make it a second pitch) then clips a bolt across the chasm made by the flake, and moves up and right into a flared crack and tops out.


Location 

Start on a block (see photos) on the north/uphill face of Rubaiyat spire. Follow cracks as above.


Protection 

I did not place anything larger than a #4 camalot. Plenty of runners. Large runner or use rope to make an anchor with the flake at the top of the chimney.

2 bolts to rap. One 60m rope would almost certainly NOT make it to the ground.



Photos of Kamps Route Slideshow Add Photo
Start on top of the higher block shown here.  Getting ready to start up, trying to figure out the most logical line.
Start on top of the higher block shown here. Gett...
Photo is a little dark but shows you can climb straight up the face, more or less, until the ledge.  Well protected.  Probably the first time I got pumped on a 5.7, trying to figure out what to do next.
Photo is a little dark but shows you can climb str...
Jay leading the short second pitch.
Jay leading the short second pitch.
Aaron coming to the summit.
Aaron coming to the summit.
Following the second pitch.
Following the second pitch.
Jay, the councilman, and the Eggman on Rubaiyat summit.
Jay, the councilman, and the Eggman on Rubaiyat su...
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