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Kamikaze 

YDS: 5.10a/b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VI+ British: E2 5b PG13

   
Type: Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: ??
Season: Spring, Summer, Fall, Sunny warm winter days
Page Views: 721
Submitted By: Burt Lindquist on Oct 1, 2007
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Dmitriy is a Kamikaze pilot.....

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Description 

Direct variation to Michael's Project. Jam and scum your way up the flared awkward left hand crack in the Michael's Crack corner keeping off the cracks, holds, and ledges of MC. I believe all foot holds and edges on the left side of the crack are OK to use. This thing is insecure and hard to protect but can be protected...


Location 

Many Pines Buttress at East Bluff Rampart. Same inside corner as Michaels Project.


Protection 

Small wires down low, small cams and wires at mid point. The upper section is same as MC.



Photos of Kamikaze Slideshow Add Photo
Climber on-sights Kamikaze on 3-10-12.
Climber on-sights Kamikaze on 3-10-12.
Comments on Kamikaze Add Comment
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By Doug Hemken
Administrator
Oct 1, 2007

A classic "Lake 8".

Rather than kick out and use holds on Flatus, I think its easier to get your hips way out and get a high step into the main crack. Its kind of like the move up the alcove on Chicago.

By Burt Lindquist
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
Oct 1, 2007

Agreed! I use a combination of right foot stuffed into the flared crack and a stem off edges with the left foot and pretty much push up the thing with the legs because the jams are darn tenuous.

By Jay Knower
Administrator
From: Plymouth, NH
Jul 15, 2008
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c

Kamikaze is the classic DL "thrutch-fest." I thought it protected pretty well with small cams at the bottom and bigger cams at the top.

A must do.

By James M Schroeder
From: Sauk County, WI
Jul 15, 2008

How is Kamikaze a must do - four star classic and Michael's a bomb?

By Dmitriy Litvak
From: Pacifica, CA
May 18, 2009
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a PG13

James,

Look at the difference in the dates for Jay's posts on Michael Project and here (2006 vs 2008). The stronger you get, the more you understand the rock and the route. Kamikaze is an eliminate finger crack. It deserves a 5.10 rating if you avoid using anything but the crack for your hands. It's a challenging (some) star route for sure.

I would also give Michael's a bomb, just because not many routes at the lake are rated so (joke). In seriousness, no route deserves a bomb; it's all our perception. It's a good route for intermediate climbers, and not so good for beginning 5.7 climbers.

By Bryan Keller
From: Madison, WI
Jun 18, 2012
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b PG13

I really struggled with this one! I saw 5.8 in the book so was surprised to get my ass kicked. The crack flares out almost everywhere which makes hand jamming almost impossible, and the fingerlocks were not great either. Add to that no feet to speak. Started out leading and had to bail onto the Michael's.

By Burt Lindquist
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
Jun 18, 2012

Ha! Bryan..

You have introduced yourself to one of the classic DL sandbags....
Especiall if on lead.... the gear placements are as tricky as the climbing moves. There is good gear though... you just have to pin-point place it and be selective about what you reach for off the gear rack.