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Kamikaze Overhangs 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 3,657
Submitted By: Pinklebear on May 26, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (16)
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Steve T. taking the less-secure way through the cr...

Climbing areas reopened after flood MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This is a fun route and a nice alternative to Fandango when the First is crowded. It starts a couple of switchbacks up the 1st Flatiron descent trail from the start of Fandango at the base of a pleasant alcove. You can recognize the start of the route by a long, purple-ish slab capped by a black, licheny roof band. A tree over the roof band usually sports rappel slings.

Climb the slab to the roof, which you can either turn directly (5.7 s) or by stepping right. Belay at the tree.

Two to three easier pitches lead to the base of another roof band, which comprises the crux. Either breach this roof on the right at a fixed pin (5.8) or via a groove and hand crack on the left (more exposed, 5.8+). The slab above this roof is studded with small trees and somewhat dirty. The best rock seems to be on the left.

Realm up to the ridge, which you then follow to the summit. This route is about 5-6 pitches long.

Protection 

Your standard Flatirons rack, with an emphasis on mid-range cams and long slings for the belays.


Photos of Kamikaze Overhangs Slideshow Add Photo
Steve T finishing the first pitch, barefoot. (jerk...
Steve T finishing the first pitch, barefoot. (jerk...
Grant climbing above the first belay on P2.
Grant climbing above the first belay on P2.
Ingrid nearing the top of the 1st pitch
Ingrid nearing the top of the 1st pitch
Posing, at the start of the 2nd pitch, in the &quo...
Posing, at the start of the 2nd pitch, in the &quo...
Steve playing on the second roof.
Steve playing on the second roof.
Taking the easy way through the crux roof. No fixe...
Taking the easy way through the crux roof. No fixe...

Comments on Kamikaze Overhangs Add Comment
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By George Bell
From: Boulder, CO
Nov 26, 2001

I believe this route starts in the same place as Zig Zag, but heads straight up over the first roof where Zig Zag Zigs Zright! Comprendo?
By Matt Amory
From: Boulder CO
Oct 27, 2006

After nixing the Direct (too long for my friend Patrik to be sure of making his flight) we were looking for Baker's, but I'm pretty sure we ended up on this. I set an exciting anchor using an actual knotted sling in a finger pocket that spit out all other pro, and was pumped to lead through the chimney on the left hand side of the second roof. Awesome morning! Next time I'd start higher on the easy slab at the base so that I didn't have to belay from the first skinny tree at the bottom of the cool water streak (Bonsai Garden?). Anchoring P1 from the big honking tree at 62 Meters would have gotten me right up under the roof for the top of P2.
By Daniel H. Bryant
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Dec 7, 2014

Led the first pitch to the bigger tree above the tree with old slings on it (ran out a 70m), then went up and left to the next big tree (another 70m pitch) which I believe is where Atalanta heads up. Be careful as this pitch had a lot of weak/decomposing flakes (easy climbing, sketchy rock). Took Atalanta to the summit.