Type: Trad, Grade II
FA: unknown
Page Views: 7,836 total · 28/month
Shared By: Orphaned User on May 25, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

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Description Suggest change

This is a fun route and a nice alternative to Fandango when the First is crowded. It starts a couple of switchbacks up the 1st Flatiron descent trail from the start of Fandango at the base of a pleasant alcove. You can recognize the start of the route by a long, purple-ish slab capped by a black, licheny roof band. A tree over the roof band usually sports rappel slings.

Climb the slab to the roof, which you can either turn directly (5.7 s) or by stepping right. Belay at the tree.

Two to three easier pitches lead to the base of another roof band, which comprises the crux. Either breach this roof on the right at a fixed pin (5.8) or via a groove and hand crack on the left (more exposed, 5.8+). The slab above this roof is studded with small trees and somewhat dirty. The best rock seems to be on the left.

Realm up to the ridge, which you then follow to the summit. This route is about 5-6 pitches long.

Protection Suggest change

Your standard Flatirons rack, with an emphasis on mid-range cams and long slings for the belays.

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