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 ADVANCED
North Side
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Kahntian Ethics 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b [details]
FA: Maury Birdwell, John Averette
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 735
Submitted By: furrymurry on Oct 17, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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Description 

The free version to the first pitch of Howling Kahn. Wonderful and engaging movement culminating in a fantastic gear protected crux. An incredible find, particularly amazing it lay dormant despite being the plumb line one rappels from the anchors of Whitney's!

Location 

The next series of climbable features and corners to the right of Whitney's Excellent Route. Start with some head's up slab to gain your first piece of gear then aim for the bolts protecting the initial sequence of difficult moves. After the 4th bolt follow the hollow flake system up into the right arching corner which leads to a two bolt anchor.

Protection 

4 bolts plus gear (SR). Anchors.


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By Abel Jones
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Oct 23, 2013

Wow... from the slab on up through many wild moves and a baddass finish. Very good addition and amazing it had been overlooked for so long. Currently many fixed nuts that give it a nice sporty feel and a single set is sufficient. Did you guys place the anchor? If so that's a wild place to put it.... just my thoughts... but it would be lame if you didn't have to do that final wildness. It stacks up with the classics around it real nice.
By john averette
Oct 24, 2013

Thanks for the review, Abel. To answer your question, we did not put the anchor there--it was put there buy the first aid ascentionists. We just opted to end our pitch out right there due to the utter badassedness of those last few moves. The climber still maintains the option of escaping onto Whitney's anchors. As far as the fixed nuts and bashies go, those are relics from the Howling Kahn's first aid ascent (i think back in the nineties)and I would not advise relying upon them for purposes other than aid or adornment.
By furrymurry
From: Boulder, CO
Aug 25, 2014

Also worth noting that it looks like the next 30 feet or so would go free with a considerable effort from some strong monkeys.