|Type:||Trad, Aid, 5 pitches, Grade III|
|Consensus:||YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c C0 [details]|
|FA:||Paul Ross and Paul Gardner: Oct. 1999|
|Submitted By:||Mike McMahon on Mar 17, 2012|
|Comments on Kachina Tower South||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
By Ian Pierce
Jul 3, 2012
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b C0 PG13
Fun route, the approach was exciting (although scorching hot on the return in July)
We used 2 #1, 1 #2, and 1 #4 camalot for the 2nd pitch.
The first pitch wasn't protectable, same with third pitch,
The fourth pitch is also hard/unprotectable, only piece we got on this was a #2 TCU half way up(although not sure we did the right OW crack, there are several.)
I believe there are 7 or 8 pitons/bolts on the final pitch, I recommend not clipping the final one to avoid rope drag.
By Alison Conrad
Apr 2, 2013
|Another fun tower tick. The downclimb to the basin is tricky to find, but once found goes fairly easy. The climb is the basin at the very end where all the trees and ledges are. Mostly scrambling with 5th class climbing. I was able to tunnel in the ow and exit out the backside- I had to remove rack and helmet. The aid pitch was interesting.|
By Dana Prosser
Apr 4, 2013
Descent into canyon: from where you park look directly across arm of canyon to north side. This series of ledges (looks improbable) leads you down to valley floor. The picture on route description shows a ledge that is crawled on to get there..
Route location: this route is located on the west side of the formation.
Route starts about 500ft to the right of beyond the 80th meridian. Climb several hundred feet up to the start of this route on slabby low angle rock.
Fun mellow adventure!
By paul bucher
From: moab, utah
May 7, 2013
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a A0+ PG13
|crazy good stuff. a bit of a sandbag. the directions sound a bit vague but work well enough if your there and follow them. although, from the other comments it sounds like we pulled it a little differently. we pulled the left side of the wash from the tree and talus high point. angled up and right on a crack/ramp like it said. poor pro and harder than 5.5. more like 5.7. pitch #2 was easy enough (5.6) and the best 15 feet of crack on the thing. pretty much a scramble to the base of the off width from there. we agree with the 5.7 for the O/W. bondo placed a 4, 5, and 6 camalot on that one. bring a least one fattie or your going solo. the money pitch had the usual pins hanging 1/2 way out. i felt the first bit of mandatory free climbing was about 5.8. however i thought the move off the last pin was a lot closer to 5.10 than 5.8. perhaps i pulled it wrong. we rapped off the south side to the base of the O/W with a single 70. then walked back above the route and made 2 easy raps from trees to the deck. cleaned and replaced webbing and added rap hardware. if your rapping the north side, bring 5 miles of webbing. it's a mess from the top down. sic little bag. big adventure. fun. good air and great location with stellar views.|
From: Bishop, CA
Mar 10, 2014
|Aside from the last 2 pitches, the route is more of a hike plus a few boulder problems. The setting and varied topology help offset the lack of sustained climbing.|
Apr 22, 2014
Best rope system for this route is a single 70 meter rope. A single 60 meter rope may be sufficient, not sure.
Ian's beta I have a few disagreements with. The first and third pitches are protectable. The third pitch is tough to protect the opening moves for the leader, but a couple of small cams protect the second. Also, if you don't clip the last piton on the final pitch and you blow the tricky move past that, you would fall a long way, possibly decking on the ledge below. Clip the last piton!, and deal with the slight rope drag that ensues.
To protect the OW pitch 4, a #6 camalot is nice. A #5 is probably sufficient.
To descend, a single rap from the summit to the base of the OW pitch 4. Then coil the rope and walk back to the saddle (top of pitch 3). From the saddle, do a short rap to the first ledge. From this ledge, walk skiers left to the end of the ledge and to the biggest tree. This ledge has some exposed spots - might want to stay roped up. From the big tree, one long rap gets you off the technical terrain.
Cool tower, cool summit!