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Start at the anchors for the first pitch of Alto Ray and climb straight up the face past three bolts. Continue up the nearly perfect finger/hand crack to another ledge. Continue up the arete past three more bolts. Top out and walk a few feet back to the anchors. A great climb with three very distinct sections that would all be worth being a climb of their own.
Directly above the anchors on the first part of Alto Ray. Can be linked and done with Alto Ray in a single pitch but you would have to do two rappels as a 70m rope won't get you to the ground.
3 bolts on the bottom section, three bolts at the top, and gear in the middle. Standard rack.
|Comments on Kabooki Direct
|By Ted Lange|
Sep 4, 2013
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c R
WARNING! - This is a great climb with three distinct sections. The first two are totally safe and fun, however the third section is not. You leave a big ledge, get one easy clip and are immediately into sustained technical 5.11b. As you approach the second bolt you enter the groundfall zone (for hitting the ledge) and encounter a clip that feels way harder than the climbing. Based on conversations I've had since doing the climb, I've learned that this clip has claimed at least one broken or badly sprained ankle. I downclimbed a couple moves then dropped onto the first bolt (and my foot still gently tapped the ledge). I then climbed about 10 feet up the wide crack in the back of a corner just right of the route(5.6 or easier), got a good stance on a big block, placed a blue Camelot that barely fit the narrowest spot in the crack (a bigger cam would have been better - if it had walked up, down or backward the Camalot would have blown), put a long runner on it and very carefully leaned way out on it until I could reach around the arete to clip the second bolt. Then I climbed back down to the ledge, started back up the final section and thoroughly enjoyed it.