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k. The Slime Wall

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
April Showers 
Back to the Future (AKA JAP) 
Climb and Punishment 
Comedy In Three Acts 
Falled on Account of Strain 
Frustration Syndrome 
Golden Showers 
Kligfield's Follies 
Last Frontier 
Simple Suff 
Stand, The 
Sticky Gate with Direct finish 
Tangled Up and Blue 

k. The Slime Wall 

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Page Views: 20,329
Administrators: JSH, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: JSH on Mar 7, 2011
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Along the Cliff 

last area: Yellow Wall and the Seasons | next area: Sleepy Hollow


Major Features: The moniker of Slime Wall is really only apt in the early spring. As it is densest in harder routes, you're fairly likely to find solitude (+/- carriage-road traffic) this far down the cliff.

This section starts with Last Frontier's bombay-chimney-hand crack, which hangs over the cliff-side trail (don't let it eat you). It continues as more or less a continuous wall all the way to the slabby crack of WASP. I've included the Dance routes (Sundance, Moondance et al.); in this section because the most straightforward way to reach them is hugging the cliffline north of WASP.

Approach: There are several trails that head up to the cliff in this area. It's easiest to aim at the last one, which deposits you at the base of the easily-identifiable crack of WASP, and work leftwards from there.

Descent: Simple Suff, Comedy In Three Acts and Frustration Syndrome sport bolts at the top of first pitches; the latter can be used for The Stand.

Routes, left-to-right 

Last Frontier: 5.10, G
The Yellow Crack: 5.12, R-X
Bragg-Hatch: 5.10+, PG
Kligfield's Follies: 5.11+, PG
Cluney's Jollies: 5.12, R
Simple Suff: 5.10-, G (**)
Techno-Stuff: 5.12-, TR
Tangled Up and Blue, 5.8-
The Blue Stink: 5.3, PG
Hooky: 5.6-, PG
Yesterday: 5.10-, PG
Tomorrow and Tomorrow and Tomorrow: 5.11, R
Falled on Account of Strain: 5.10-, PG-R (**)
Wet Dream: 5.12-, R
April Showers: 5.11, PG
Golden Showers: 5.11, G-PG
Called On Account of Rain: 5.11+, R
Comedy In Three Acts: 5.11, PG (**)
Drop Zone: 5.12-, R
Pressure Drop: 5.11+, R
Frustration Syndrome: 5.10, G
??: 5.11b, R
The Stand: 5.11-, PG
Coprophagia: 5.10-, PG
Wasp: 5.9, PG
J. A. P.: 5.10, PG
Expedition to Nowhere: 5.10-, R
Sticky Gate: 5.3, PG
Mud Sweat and Tears: 5.10-, PG
Withering Heights: 5.11, PG-R
Moondance: 5.6, G-PG
Sundance: 5.6, PG
Ghostdance: 5.7, PG-R
Raindance: 5.5, G
Contradance: 5.6-, PG

18 Total Routes

['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',8],['2 Stars',8],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for k. The Slime Wall:
Sundance   5.6 4c 14 V S 4b     Trad, 2 pitches, 130'   
Tangled Up and Blue   5.8- 5b 16 VI- VS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch   
Wasp   5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a     Trad, 2 pitches, 230'   
Simple Suff   5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   
Falled on Account of Strain   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b     Trad, 2 pitches, 160'   
Last Frontier   5.10b/c 6b 20 VII E2 5b     Trad, 3 pitches, 200'   
Frustration Syndrome   5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   
Golden Showers   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c PG13     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   
The Stand   5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ E3 5c     Trad, 75'   
April Showers   5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c PG13     Trad, 1 pitch   
Comedy In Three Acts   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- E4 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 50'   
Kligfield's Follies   5.11d 7a 24 VIII E5 6a     Trad, 1 pitch, 75'   
Techno-Suff   5.11d 7a 24 VIII E5 6a     TR, 1 pitch, 50'   
Browse More Classics in k. The Slime Wall

Featured Route For k. The Slime Wall
Rich Romano doing the low crux reach from the slot. Photo shared by Bob D'Antonio.

Kligfield's Follies 5.11d 7a 24 VIII E5 6a  NY : The Gunks : ... : k. The Slime Wall
Because of Dick Williams' rather superlative description of the difficulty of this route, and after coming to expect 5.11 and up Gunks climbs to be extremely involved and generally terrifying, I'd kept away from it for a long time. However I was psyched to discover that Kligfield's is, for the most part, a good ol' mostly vertical pump with relatively straight-forward gear... reminiscent of a funky granite corner or something you'd find in Eldorado Canyon.The line follows an arching crack syste...[more]   Browse More Classics in NY

Photos of k. The Slime Wall Slideshow Add Photo
Laura Smith beginning Simple Suff's not-so-simple stuff during Gunks Reunion '08.
Laura Smith beginning Simple Suff's not-so-simple ...
Tricia on the thin start of Falled on Account of Strain.
Tricia on the thin start of Falled on Account of S...
Heading up WASP with wasp stings from our previous route.
BETA PHOTO: Heading up WASP with wasp stings from our previous...
Standing on The Stand
Standing on The Stand
no Frustration on TR
no Frustration on TR
A young toad trying badly to camouflage among the rocks near The Slime Wall.
A young toad trying badly to camouflage among the ...
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