k. The Slime Wall  Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular Page Views:  14,713. Good page?    Administrators:  JSH, Tom Erickson Submitted By:  JSH on Mar 7, 2011 Make this area a Favorite What's New   Print a Mini-Guide with routes Add Route  Add Photo  Add Comment  Add Event  Thu Fri Sat Sun Mon 81° | 55° 81° | 57° 86° | 63° 91° | 64° 84° | 66°

Area closures MORE INFO >>> 2013 Peregrine Closure: Bloody Bush (5.7) to Overhanging Layback (5.7). This includes Arch, Ribs, Strictly, Shockley's and the Mac Wall. Best wishes to the nestlings. This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Pete searching the Last Frontier for feet

Along the Cliff 

last area: Yellow Wall and the Seasons | next area: Sleepy Hollow

Description 

Major Features: The moniker of Slime Wall is really only apt in the early spring. As it is densest in harder routes, you're fairly likely to find solitude (+/- carriage-road traffic) this far down the cliff.

This section starts with Last Frontier's bombay-chimney-hand crack, which hangs over the cliff-side trail (don't let it eat you). It continues as more or less a continuous wall all the way to the slabby crack of WASP. I've included the Dance routes (Sundance, Moondance et al.); in this section because the most straightforward way to reach them is hugging the cliffline north of WASP.

Approach: There are several trails that head up to the cliff in this area. It's easiest to aim at the last one, which deposits you at the base of the easily-identifiable crack of WASP, and work leftwards from there.

Descent: Simple Suff, Comedy In Three Acts and Frustration Syndrome sport bolts at the top of first pitches; the latter can be used for The Stand.

Routes, left-to-right 

Last Frontier: 5.10, G
The Yellow Crack: 5.12, R-X
Bragg-Hatch: 5.10+, PG
Kligfield's Follies: 5.11+, PG
Cluney's Jollies: 5.12, R
Simple Suff: 5.10-, G (**)
Techno-Stuff: 5.12-, TR
Tangled Up and Blue, 5.8-
The Blue Stink: 5.3, PG
Hooky: 5.6-, PG
Yesterday: 5.10-, PG
Tomorrow and Tomorrow and Tomorrow: 5.11, R
Falled on Account of Strain: 5.10-, PG-R (**)
Wet Dream: 5.12-, R
April Showers: 5.11, PG
Golden Showers: 5.11, G-PG
Called On Account of Rain: 5.11+, R
Comedy In Three Acts: 5.11, PG (**)
Drop Zone: 5.12-, R
Pressure Drop: 5.11+, R
Frustration Syndrome: 5.10, G
??: 5.11b, R
The Stand: 5.11-, PG
Coprophagia: 5.10-, PG
Wasp: 5.9, PG
J. A. P.: 5.10, PG
Expedition to Nowhere: 5.10-, R
Sticky Gate: 5.3, PG
Mud Sweat and Tears: 5.10-, PG
Withering Heights: 5.11, PG-R
Moondance: 5.6, G-PG
Sundance: 5.6, PG
Ghostdance: 5.7, PG-R
Raindance: 5.5, G
Contradance: 5.6-, PG

The Classics

Featured Route For k. The Slime Wall

Falled on Account of Strain 5.10b  NY : The Gunks : ... : k. The Slime Wall

Falled on Account of Strain is a great climb that culminates in a huge roof finish. This is one of the easiest lines up the Slime Wall, but it's no gimmie.Start about 100' right of Simple Suff and 20' left of April Showers, at a thin crack/seam.P1: Head up a nice but runout face left of the seam/crack to a bolted anchor. 5.9+, 80'. P2: Belay, or continue up and right to the massive roof. It's difficult to discern exactly where to pull this roof, but you basically have to do a very big move ...[more]   Browse More Classics in NY

Photos of k. The Slime Wall Slideshow

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Laura Smith beginning Simple Suff's not-so-simple ...	Tricia on the thin start of Falled on Account of S...	no Frustration on TR
Standing on The Stand	BETA PHOTO: Heading up WASP with wasp stings from our previous...