K-9 Shanghai 5.12a
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| Type: | Trad, Sport, 3 pitches, 260 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.12a [details] |
| FA: | Elmo Mecsko/Reed Fee - August 2008 |
| New Route: | Yes |
| Submitted By: | elmo mecsko on Sep 30, 2008 |
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BETA PHOTO: Topo of K-9 Shanghai Pitch 1
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Description PITCH 1: 5.11a - 100 feet of fun, steep crack that keeps getting harder as you move upward. The overhanging crux leads to bolted anchors.
PITCH 2: 5.12a - 60 feet of steep to very overhanging finger/hand crack. Fun and Dynamic movement thru the roof.
PITCH 3: 5.10a - Move to the right, climb the steep arete clipping bolts and a few gear placements. Finish thru an overhang to the left to a big ledge with bolted anchors.
Location Route starts directly below the huge roof and climbs the thin crack straight towards the roof. Bring a large rack with very small cams, doubles on small and medium cams, and a 3.5 cam to protect the crux of the route.
To descend, Rappel with a single rope to the top of the 2nd Pitch, from here a 2 rope rappel will get you to the ground (Because of the large overhang of the roof, it is recommended doing the 2nd rappel to the ground with 2 ropes, as it can be difficult to access the anchors at the top of Pitch 1 when you are hanging 20 feet away from the wall!)
Protection PITCH 1: Double up on small and medium cams. Bolted belay anchors.
PITCH 2: Standard rack including small cams and a 3.5" cam. Bolted belay anchors.
PITCH 3: Bolts and a few standard gear placements. Bolted belay anchors.
BETA PHOTO: Topo of K-9 Shanghai Pitch 2
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BETA PHOTO: Topo of K-9 Shanghai Pitch 3
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Reed Redpointing(FFA) Pitch 1 of K-9 Shanghai
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Elmo & Reed at first set of anchors, following Ree...
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Elmo moving thru the crux moves during First Free ...
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Moving thru Crux of K-9 Shanghai.
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Still Cruxing!
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Redpointing Pitch 2
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Reed on Pitch 3, K-9 Shanghai
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By Reed Fee
From: White Salmon WA
Oct 15, 2008
| A really good route for the Gorge area. Petes pile is one of the few places in the gorge you can do multipitch besides Beacon Rock. The exposure of this route is great, Mt. Hood behind you and the East Fork of the Hood river below you. You can thank Rick Harrel for the inspiration to put up this line.Also for losing his dog in the process. Pitch two has some semi fixed gear for those of you who might want to aid through the crux. Take care clipping the first bolt on the third pitch. |
By elmo mecsko
From: Lyle, Washington
Nov 9, 2008
| Really hoping that a party will get the second ascent on this next year! If anyone gets out to try this route please post your comments and opinions as it would be nice to know what others think of this climb.
So great to have done this route with you Reed! Awesome job with that first pitch! Hope all is well in Utah. Cheers, Elmo |
By Reed Fee
From: White Salmon WA
Jun 15, 2009
| Has anybody gotten on this gem yet? Hopefully it wont fade into mossy obscurity. |
By T_jones
From: Salty Lake
Jul 15, 2009
| Living in the gorge for the summer from SLC...looking to go check out Pete's and this route very soon. I'll let you know how it goes |
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