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|In critical habitat area for the Desert Tortoise|
This route is named "k-8" because it originally was the eighth route from the left side. Now it about the 11th or 12th, so things have changed a little.
Anyway, Todd Goss calls this "one of the best routes in Utah". Wow... strong statement! However, I am hard pressed to argue with him - I can't think of another one at the 11b grade that is as good as this.
Great pockets and edges through a couple of roofs, everything but the kitchen sink on this line.
Starts right on top of the big boulder in the middle of the crag. there are about 10 lines left of the big boulder. 2 lines leave the top of the boulder, this is the right most of the two.
7 bolts to Anchors.
|By McRae Williams|
Oct 20, 2008
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c
Got on this route over the weekend; best i've done yet. The rock is unbelievable and the flow of the line is amazing. No real crux in my opinion, just stay with it and enjoy the climbing.
From: Centerville, UT
Dec 2, 2008
Bulletproof rock, fun moves, perfect holds. A little soft for the grade. I just wish it was longer!
Mar 27, 2010
No real crux? Were we on the same route? If you climb this route, you will know where the crux is. I bet you can pick it out from the ground.
Apr 4, 2011
Bad beta may have created a definite crux. Every move can be done statically with 3 points on.
The roof can be tricky to negotiate but with a bit of patience, beta can be discovered that makes the movement pretty straight forward. (No throw involved)
I only say this so someone who avoids dynamic movement won't avoid getting on the route. The route is an excellent 11b, not the best in Utah but well worth the time.
|By steve edwards|
From: SLC, UT
Apr 24, 2011
Been trying to come to terms with the 'best route in Utah' statement for years and just don't see it. In fact, the more I do this route the more I think Goss is either insane or sandbagging. It's super sharp with no hands rests all over the place. I'd call quite a few of the other routes at Kelly's more fun and it's not close to the best wall in Utah. It's not even the best wall in a walking 10 minute radius.
|By Kenny Clark|
From: State College, PA
Jul 4, 2011
What is the best beta then to overcome the first roof? I got shut down there when I tried it.
Jul 6, 2011
Without saying more than some people want to hear, it involves a pretty blind reach over the lip of the roof(holds are good enough below roof you can feel around if necessary).... Establish on the holds then look for a high-step on the lip of the roof. Its not a great foothold, but trust it and it works. I'm 5' 7" and can reach all the holds to do the moves static.