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Justin Alf Memorial Route 

YDS: 5.10b/c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Bob D'Antonio and Vaino Kodas
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 425
Submitted By: Ron Olsen on Aug 10, 2002
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BETA PHOTO: The start of the Justin Alf Memorial Route. Some ...
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Description 

My nephew, Justin Alf, was killed on 8/10/2002 in a car accident on Arapahoe Ave. just east of Layafette, CO. This route was done in his memory. Justin, all of your family and friends miss you. Start just left of Gish on the Aquarium Wall. Climb a short slab past two bolts to good rest. Climb up past four bolts (long reach at the fifth bolt is the crux) and gear passing a small pine tree up to a ledge. From the ledge, go left up to a small pine tree and shallow crack, place small gear and crank past three more bolts up a steep face to a good crack and ledge. Place a Friend and go right to the Gish anchor.


Protection 

Ten bolts and small to medium gear will get you to the Gish anchor.



Photos of Justin Alf Memorial Route Slideshow Add Photo
Aquarium Wall, lower routes.
BETA PHOTO: Aquarium Wall, lower routes.
Mike Amato contemplating which way to go at the sixth bolt.  The correct route angles up left, in a lichen-covered corner with a little pine tree and no bolts.  Mike chose to angle up right, onto Gish, on cleaner rock with two bolts.
Mike Amato contemplating which way to go at the si...
Comments on Justin Alf Memorial Route Add Comment
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By Ron Olsen
From: Boulder, CO
Jul 17, 2005
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b

A climb with some good moves, but also some of the dirtiest rock in Boulder Canyon. This climb needs a good scrubbing before it will ever become popular.

The belay position at the start is precarious. You're on a slippery vegetated slope with no anchor, and Boulder Creek roaring 15' below. If the leader falls before the first clip, both leader and belayer will fall in the creek. A belay bolt at the start is really needed.

There's a great sequence of moves from the fourth to fifth bolts; work up left and back right for the easiest line.

After the sixth bolt, the leader is confronted with a choice: angle up left in a shallow corner with a little pine tree and lichen-covered rock that looks as if it's never been climbed (with no bolts to mark the way); or angle up right past two bolts on cleaner rock on Gish.

My partner opted for the Gish variation. I think most climbers, not knowing where the route goes, would make the same choice. This corner also needs a thorough scrubbing and perhaps a bolt to indicate that the route really goes left at this point.

At a ledge below the final headwall, my partner spotted bolts off to the left and angled back on route. The final headwall has a little pine tree sticking out, rock that is completely lichen covered, and some very hard moves. The thin face above the little tree felt about 10d to 11a.

My partner belayed from a good ledge at the top and brought me up. We then rappelled with a 70m rope, which was just long enough to get all the way back to the ground without having to stop at the Gish anchor 30' off the deck.

Bob and Vaino, you guys have put up some great routes in Boulder Canyon, and we're all thankful for them. This route, however, needs some more work before it approaches the standards of your other contributions.

By Michael Amato
Jul 18, 2005

Some fun moves, but the start as well as the finish may warrant an "s" rating. Oh, and add a couple of letter grades for lichen-impaired seeing and breathing, not to mention hand and foot holds.

By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Aug 15, 2010
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b

You can continue up and left past the merge with Gish on 2.5-3" gear and hit the summit of the rock. Improvise and escape down to a bolted anchor somewhere and take a few raps to the ground. This route is a little harder and dirtier than Gish and has more suspect rock.