Just Say No
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|Please respect this beautiful area. Stay on established trails and do not trample any vegetation|
This route is for those who just wanta say no to clipping bolts and test their mental skills with placing gear. Start from the ground where the rock abruptly changes color from dark to white. Climb to the large ledge 15-20 feet up, then step left onto the steep face left of Momentary Relapse and follow horizontals (placing pro when you can) to a second large ledge (where the hard climbing on Momentary Relapse ends). From the second large ledge, climb the reddish dihedral to chossy looking rock above to the rap anchors that shared with Momentary Relapse.
Note - To preserve the rap anchors, Metolius rap hangers, please DO NOT lower directly off the anchors as it puts unnecessary wear on them. Instead, use your own gear for lowering. The last person to climb should rap. (This comment is true for any route with fixed anchors but more so because replacing the hangers is a PITA).
This route is the eighth route on the wall from right to left and is just left of the blocky start of Momentary Relapse.
Cams and TCUs to 2.5"