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Elephant Rock - East
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Columbian Crack T 
Heironimous Bosch S 
Just Say No S 
Pretzel Logic T,S 
Pygmies Got Stoned, The S 
Rye Crisp T 
Sinsemilla T 
Tres Amigos S 
Wheat Thin T 

Just Say No 

YDS: 5.9- French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 16 British: HVS 4c PG13

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Dan Sperlock, 1989
Page Views: 2,908
Submitted By: Nathan Fisher on Jul 25, 2004

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (113)
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Joe on Just Say No

Description 

This is the left most route of bolts on the Northeast side, just right of a large chimney. The 1st clip is tenuous and the hanger is loose, so take your time (as I found out) and gain the height needed to clip properly. It get's runout near the top but it also eases up. Utilize that left arete when neede, although it isn't as much help as you would think.

Protection 

5 draws for the route and 2 more for the anchors. A 60-meter rope is required and on the rappel aim right. Beware it is 103 feet to the ground.


Photos of Just Say No Slideshow Add Photo
Peter Gram leading Just Say No
Peter Gram leading Just Say No
David on Just Say No
David on Just Say No
Paul pulling rope
Paul pulling rope
photo: Mooner <br /> <br />A full shot of the route, late in the day.
photo: Mooner

A full shot of the route, late in t...
Peter Gram headed for the first bolt on Just Say No.
Peter Gram headed for the first bolt on Just Say N...
TRing Just Say No
TRing Just Say No

Comments on Just Say No Add Comment
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By Matt Richardson
Administrator
From: Longmont, CO
Jun 19, 2006
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13

A fall going to the first bolt would be bad. You can actually hitch a runner around the rock in the little "cave" to the left - takes the sting out of the run out to the first bolt. But keep in mind that there are still only 5 bolts for 100' of climbing!
By Monty
From: Golden, CO
Aug 20, 2006

just say yes!
By Blitzo
Oct 24, 2006

This route is fun!
By Addict
Oct 30, 2006
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13

Fun route. Pretty dang runout, a nice lead for the 5.10 climber though.
By Matt Schroer
From: Logan, Utah
Jul 6, 2011
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

This was my first climb at the city and a super fun bolted arete. Note that it is 5 bolts for >100 feet of climbing, but the upper portion is significantly easier than the lower portion. Crux for me was getting to that first bolt.
By Hendo
From: Denver, CO
Jun 17, 2013
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13

I think I got off route, and made this way more difficult. But the 5th bolt (up high) was the toughest section to me. I went pretty far right though. So I guess don't do that?

I did this route thinking it was PG13 or R because of the first bolt, and the first bolt only. I think it's rated at this because of all the bolts. 15ft above your last bolt smearing on some sheisty slab is a bit intense!
By Sam Cannon
From: Holladay, Utah
Aug 2, 2013
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13

My partner chose to sling a hole in the rock heading up to the first bolt, so I can confirm this is a good way to ease the start a bit. I found the bolt spacing to be pretty heady, but I don't sport climb a lot. Crux for me was between bolts 4 and 5, where it was pretty slabby for a few moves compared to the nice patina elsewhere.

As a side note, I did enjoy this route MORE because of the bolt spacing. Made it pretty engaging for me, but I don't onsight 5.13 sport climbs as warm ups.