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North/West side
Routes Sorted
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Biomechanoid S 
Chocolate Thunder S 
Citizen of Time S 
Crisis In Utopia T 
D'Antonio Approach S 
Dangle Your Participle S 
Hammertime S 
Huecos Rancheros S 
Just Say No To Jugs S 
Just Say Yes To Fingercrack T 
Lubme S 
Overkill S 
Overlard (aka Foops) S 
Overlichen S 
Overloord S 
Overripe Fresh-Squeezed California Crack T 
Overripe Fresh-Squeezed California Females S 
Primal Scream S 
Putterman Gully Jump S 
Route 7 S 
Route 8 S 
Sandy Pocket Crack T 
Toprope face (unknown) TR 
Unknown (crack left of Overlord) T 
Unknown (crack right of Overlard) T 
Vanilla Crack T 
Vasoconstrictor S 
View with a Room S 

Just Say No To Jugs 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Rick Smith and Lee Sheftel, 1989
Page Views: 570
Submitted By: Scott Beguin on Aug 29, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (12)
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Description 

An overhanging wall with monster pockets and some stellar climbing. The opening moves are a little tricky so don't blow the first clip as it is a horrible landing. Get the first bolt and let the fun pocket pumping begin, and then continue to the thin and tricky exit up onto a shelf. The crux is at the last bolt.

Location 

1st chalked up route to the left of Vasoconstrictor

Protection 

4 bolts to a 2 bolt chained anchor. Stick clip recommended.


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By J tot
From: Tempe, AZ
Jul 13, 2010

This route feels pretty hard at first. However, once the you start to dial the sequencing it lightens up a lot.

Also, the first two clips are pretty hairy. A stick clip or a really good spot would be advantageous.