2014 Update: The U.S. Forest Service has reopened Eagle Rock and Security Risk climbing areas in Boulder Canyon which have been closed since Feb. 1 to protect golden eagles during their nesting season. Blob Rock and Bitty Buttress areas remain CLOSED.
Each year, Boulder Canyon raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting February 1st through July 31st at Eagle Rock, Security Risk, Blob Rock, and Bitty Buttress. However, the area is monitored and closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the Forest Service Boulder Ranger District, Boulder Climbing Community, and Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. More info at www.fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/recreation.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
P2. Move right onto a bulging section protectable with small cams. There is a wiggling flake here or there on this bit. Pull over without falling, staying over your feet. Move upwards on lower angle terrain with a bulge or two. Be careful not to hook your rope on the dead tree/stump. ~120' up you can get a directional under the small face, and then you can angle down and left to a belay under what looks like buck teeth.
Note, we explored left from the bolted belay but found the features rounded enough to move us rightward. Also, you could "Z" the pitch by traversing over to the tree on the left, but this inverted "L" seemed to portend less drag.
P3. Now this start is probably indicated on p. 99 of Rossiter's excellent 1999 Rock Climbing Boulder Canyon. Avoiding the thin wire crack directly above the belay (which we dubbed the Yanukovych option), we moved slightly left into a better featured crack/groove that felt harder than 5.5. Once on the face, we angled right into a left-facing dihedral. A cruxy move into the dihedral gets your attention. Continue upward on bits of face climbing into a pod on the left and belay.
P4. Here you have some options. The straight-above-the-belay option gets your initial vote but has a precarious-looking block which might teeter out and kill you and/or your belayer if you pulled the wrong way (which we dubbed the Obama option). Traversing rightward, you see the next left-angling dihedral with crusty-looking footwork and crumbly looking edges of the crack (which we dubbed the Putin option). A stopper or two for a directional and additional rightward traversing leads to a more solid-looking bulge solution. Still, you must take care not to fall, given the ledge below the bulge. Clear the bulge, follow a right-leaning line to a ledge on the right, and belay. A #4 Camalot is nice here. There used to be a death-defying, 3-4 foot, guillotine blade here which George most generously cleared.
P5. Now, you move slightly left and aim for the inviting dihedral above. There are still some loose blocks on this pitch. In particular, there is a hanging peninsula of rock in the dihedral (which we dubbed Crimea) which is very difficult to avoid pulling upon. Above, there is a block on the left which seemed okay to stand upon, but avoiding pulling upon it may be best to survive passage. Finish the dihedral and belay.
Walk off down the right side of The Bihedral.
Find this line wandering up to the prow and right of The Bihedral. See the topo photo.
Double ropes were used but may not be required. A rack with wires, a few medium to large hexes, and cams from small to a #4 Camalot is useful. Long slings, including some 48" slings will keep down the rope drag.
This route lies above the right side of the Riviera. Any rock knocked off could crash down onto climbers and spectators, kids and dogs, who are oblivious to what lies above. Better avoid it on weekends — and warm weekdays.