Type: | Trad, TR, 95 ft (29 m) |
FA: | Deb Thompson, LP? |
Page Views: | 1,033 total · 6/month |
Shared By: | Leo Paik on Dec 10, 2010 |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Your To-Do List:
Add To-Do ·
Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Access issue - Monastery, Cedar Park, Combat Rock, etc.?
Details
Per JF M: as of May 2022, there is no signage on-site, nor information on the USFS webpage for the Cameron Peak Fire (nor on their published map of closures) that indicates the area is closed.
Per Bruce Hildenbrand: it appears that the Forest Service has closed access to all the climbing areas accessed via Storm Mountain Road (Monastery, Cedar Park, Combat Rock, etc.) until they can clear all the dangerous dead trees from the Cameron Peak fire.
I worked this issue with Eric Murdock at the AF, and it looks like the Forest Service picked Devil's Gulch Road as the southern boundary even though all the climbing areas on MP.com were not burned.
Per Bruce Hildenbrand: it appears that the Forest Service has closed access to all the climbing areas accessed via Storm Mountain Road (Monastery, Cedar Park, Combat Rock, etc.) until they can clear all the dangerous dead trees from the Cameron Peak fire.
I worked this issue with Eric Murdock at the AF, and it looks like the Forest Service picked Devil's Gulch Road as the southern boundary even though all the climbing areas on MP.com were not burned.
Description
If you climb Ixodes, you may just be drawn to a fracture just to the right and wonder. Turns out, the rock is actually better than Ixodes, it's far less than vertical, and the moves are a bit easier, too.
At best, this could be a headpoint with the first good pro 35-40' up. It's probably a wiser TR. You can reduce the swing with a green Alien/#2 Camalot, #4 BD wire, #0 TCU.
Start to the right of the fracture line under a big knob. Move up to the knob. A hold or two on the right makes this easier. Mantle or semi-mantle onto the knob. Find nice features on either side of the fracture. Continue past the slight opening in the crack. Continue to the right on fun flakes. Move left at a ledge. Continue up a groove to the right of the anchors for Ixodes.
At best, this could be a headpoint with the first good pro 35-40' up. It's probably a wiser TR. You can reduce the swing with a green Alien/#2 Camalot, #4 BD wire, #0 TCU.
Start to the right of the fracture line under a big knob. Move up to the knob. A hold or two on the right makes this easier. Mantle or semi-mantle onto the knob. Find nice features on either side of the fracture. Continue past the slight opening in the crack. Continue to the right on fun flakes. Move left at a ledge. Continue up a groove to the right of the anchors for Ixodes.
Protection
To TR, green Alien/#2 Camalot, #4 BD wire, #0 TCU for directionals and the anchor for Ixodes.
To lead, a bloody bull headed orneriness, nerves of steel, a big sling for the knob, #0 TCU, a #4 BD wire, and green Alien/#2 Camalot.
To lead, a bloody bull headed orneriness, nerves of steel, a big sling for the knob, #0 TCU, a #4 BD wire, and green Alien/#2 Camalot.
0 Comments