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Just My Baby and Me S 

Just My Baby and Me 

YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Gene Larson
Page Views: 242
Submitted By: Wilson On The Drums on Aug 9, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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Description 

Possibly the best protected route in the Ten Pins area. 5 bolts (older button head type-but still solid) on only a 40-50ish foot climb. It is dead vertical so all falls would be short and clean. There isn't a very distinct crux, it's just very consistent hard 10 move after another. Very pinchy with ok feet. i felt like I was going to blow a finger tendon while holding on so tight because i thought my feet were just melting off the rock. I've been told this was bolted from the ground up using free stances, great style if you ask me. Get on it.

Location 

Located near the Pawn. Look for a short blunt spire with a crystalline face and 5 bolts, can't miss it. Best to walk off b/c of the location and type of bolts up top.

Protection 

5 bolts. Three bot anchor up top. Easy access to the top from the rear if you wanna set up a TR, use extra long slings to reduce rope drag.


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By Wilson On The Drums
From: Woodbury, MN
Aug 9, 2013

I'll add a photo once I get one. This route teeters on the 5.10+/5.11- grade, you be the judge as I've heard both.
By Tim McCabe
Aug 13, 2013

Pretty sure this one was done with a Bosch. I know it was early 90's while they were still legal in the Park.

It was considered 10c when it first went up but I could see it loosing enough crystals to be harder by now. Very sustained for a Needles route.