2014 Update: The U.S. Forest Service has reopened Eagle Rock and Security Risk climbing areas in Boulder Canyon which have been closed since Feb. 1 to protect golden eagles during their nesting season. Blob Rock and Bitty Buttress areas remain CLOSED.
Each year, Boulder Canyon raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting February 1st through July 31st at Eagle Rock, Security Risk, Blob Rock, and Bitty Buttress. However, the area is monitored and closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the Forest Service Boulder Ranger District, Boulder Climbing Community, and Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. More info at www.fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/recreation.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
This climb is located left of "Get your Dieck Off My...". Climb easily over low-angle terrain past 2 bolts to a nice easy corner. Place gear in the corner and follow it to the roof. This is where the fun begins. Place some small cams in a horizontal crack at roof and traverse left (easier then it looks). Place another piece or reach up and clip the last bolt. Make difficult moves to stand up above little roof and another (thin slab, with little for the feet or hands) to reach the anchor. This is a fun stretch from the roof to the anchors. I would have given this climb another star if it had more climbing like this section.
3 bolts plus gear (light rack, small-med cams would suffice) to 2 bolt anchor.
By Tony B From: Around Boulder, CO Jun 14, 2006 rating: 5.10d6b+21VII+21E3 5b
Uhh... 10a for the move at the last bolt? I thought it felt like 10d. Was there a way to skip that thin moves off of the slanting sidepulls (left hand) that I did not see? Were there once footholds or something?
Pat Thompson gives this route an 11a rating. Here is an excerpt from his comment on "Barnyard Animals":
Just Moo It, 11a. Just left of Barnyard Animals, climb past two bolts on a broken slab past bushes and then go up an easy crack to a small roof. Step over the roof and do some awfully thin moves past a bolt to the anchors. Pro: 3 bolts plus some small cams and stoppers.
Rolofson's new guide book rates it 9+/10a, but that's probably an error.
I was overly influenced by the guidebook rating. It did seem like solid 10, but I thought maybe I should have been trusting my feet more. I do remember that I had to make quite a long reach up and left to complete the last move of the climb and that it would be quite a bit harder for shorter climbers (I am 5'11"). I bumped up the rating to 10+.