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Mary's Bust - main buttress
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Broadmoor, The 
Brown Palace, The 
Convolution 
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Disneyland 
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Fool Me Twice 
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Just in Time 
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Wingardium Leviosa 
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Just in Time 

YDS: 5.11b/c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a/b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Unknown (help)
Season: Any time
Page Views: 667
Submitted By: Scott Matz on Aug 5, 2009
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
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Description 

A nice looking route just left of S.I.T. and The Flake, it starts easy and picks up fast. There are a couple of cruxes one is down between the 3rd and 4th bolt, the other is up a couple bolts where the route turns vertical (almost overhanging) most bolts have great stances for clipping. You'll also find good places to catch a rest if you're looking. A lot of good feet.


Location 

This is the 2nd route left of The Flake, next to Stuck In Time. Just take a look at Bernard's topo map.


Protection 

10-12 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor, 1st bolt is up about 10 feet.



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By Scott Matz
From: Loveland, CO
Aug 5, 2009

After trying Brown Palace, we got on this route, definitely pushing my leading skills. It looks like this route could lead to a couple of more pitches, what do you think about that (B.G.)? This is a great route (in the running).

By Bernard Gillett
Aug 5, 2009

I think it's probable at least one more pitch could be added. Whoever put in the initial work on this route (in the early 1990s, I think) apparently intended to continue up the wall as there is one bolt visible from the belay up and left about 15 feet. I'll put it on my check-it-out list (though I may not get to it for a while as I've got designs on some other big routes first, and my summer is coming to an end).

By Scott Matz
From: Loveland, CO
Aug 6, 2009

Yeah, I did see that it has an old rusty color sling on it. There's a nice chimney system with good holds. Have a good time.

By timoteo
Aug 9, 2009

Funny, I just noticed this route today, there was an Italian family on it- Dad (broken ankle 2 months ago) led it, and 16 year-old daughter hiked it on toprope. He said 11c. Thanks for posting this!
Bernard-I like the name Disneyland! Good luck with the upper pitches. And your latest new pitch on Devils Backbone sounds good- will try it when I become younger, stronger, and more talented. We did the 1st 3 of Brown Palace today, the 2nd pitch is excellent, 3rd spit me off. This is becoming quite the crag!