Clip the first bolt and then make crux slab move. The climbing then eases and by the time you get into the sea of knobs enjoy the runout bolted 5.3 to the tree. The first move can be easily aided if necessary.
The first route just right of the gully that separates the Pot Belly wall and the main Sloth Wall. I rapped off the tree with a single 50m into the gully,but had to do some downclimbing in the gully to get back to the base.
7 bolts to the tree rappel.
The bolts get spaced farther and farther apart as you get closer to the anchors but the climbing gets correspondingly easier.
Decent pine tree with reasonable slings at the top as of October 07.
Nearing the top of this great climb
Wider view of the Crux
|By Bill Olszewski|
From: Colorado Springs, CO
May 15, 2009
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
I counted 6 bolts but they're all where they need to be. First bolt protects the lone .10a move; second bolt protects 5.7 moves. A yellow Alien can be placed high in the final runout and a medium cam can be used down low, if one climbs the cracks to the first bolt.