Just Face It 5.11a
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.11a [details] |
| FA: | Ryan Curry and Mark Bauer |
| New Route: | Yes |
| Submitted By: | Ryan Curry on Jun 8, 2011 |
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Installing the protection bolt on the first ascent...
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Description This is an alternate, and easier, start to Ears To You. It offers fun, well-protected face climbing and a direct passage to the "Ear". Start with bouldery moves on good edges in flakey rock. Although the surrounding rock is a bit chossy the holds are solid horizontal intrusions (iron-diorite?) and bomber. Place a good small cam and climb up to improving rock via intriguing moves. Another small cam placement in an overlap protects face moves that lead to a bolt. Clip the bolt and move up to the base of the "Ear". Finish on Ears To You.
Location Find Just Face It about twenty feet to the left of Ears to You. The start is marked by two (very) thin horizontal bands of dark rock. Look for a cairn at the base.
Protection Two small cams (purple metolius) protect the first 15'-20'. The dihedral up higher takes wires and cams to 4". A single set should suffice for most. Two bolt anchor with chains.
The start. The chalk "5.11-" is long gone now but ...
| Moving past the second small cam placement on the ...
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