Start at the same spot as Are You Hard Enough?. Lieback up the left slanting crack to reach a high first bolt (optional gear, fingers or hands I think??) Move right and up the face to get positioned under the roof. Make some cool moves pulling the roof and then fight the pump as you climb to the anchors.
9 bolts, 2 bolt anchor rap
1-2" gear optional.
|By Luke Stefurak|
From: Mountain View, CA
Apr 29, 2013
The first bolt is almost 30 feet up and it's 5.10 climbing to get there. A single rack from fingers to hands would be recommended. You can even get in a #4 camalot at the first roof, instead of using the old rusty piton.
|By Simon W|
Mar 25, 2014
Not sure if we did the same start, but I did the variation that starts to the right, and then traverses left to gain the roof.
Probably not quite 30 feet up at the first bolt that, but you would still wreck yourself if you fell. It's a ~5.9 undercling move to get where you can clip the bolt.
Looked like the only place to get gear in was for the left start variation.
Hard to clean if you do this variation, but the anchor is mussies so you can lower and clean.. Long swing at the end!
That said. Great climb! You turn the roof in an unusual way!
There is an X'd loose block under the roof. I tried to trundle it, but it wouldn't go.
|By Chris I|
From: Fresno, CA
Apr 21, 2014
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
I placed a #4 bd and a .75 before getting to the first bolt and was glad to have them. I clipped the rusty pin, but really had no faith in it; it looks pretty rotten. I was able to no hands rest as much as I wanted before the crux, but misread the moves. From the roof to the chains is demanding and exciting. Fun route.
|By Chris Mutzel|
From: Seattle, Washington
May 5, 2014
Had fun on this one yesterday. The layback on the left up the ramp protects well. Put a green BD cam (.75) in at the start, a purple (.5) a few feet above the piton, and a #4 near the light colored section in the rock.
I used the #4 just above the piton to protect it, then back cleaned to use it again, though it was probably unnecessary.
Get a good rest before the roof, then power through the the third bolt above it, rest, finish.
| || Eddy leading just do it. Figuring out the challenging roof move. |