|611 page views|
Known primarily for a novel "slab-dyno" past the first bolt, this route provides some tough slab smearing to a moderate yet exciting finish. The first crux is, as mentioned, a bizarre leap to a good crimp. The guidebook refers to the move as "The Boing", and rightly so: there seems to be no other option than to spring, jump, or otherwise lunge to the next hold, which is decidedly awkward on a thin climb such as this. Afterward, engaging face climbing leads to a good ledge, then a moderate runout to a two-bolt rap anchor.
You can top-rope this route with a 60 meter rope.
Located about 60 feet to the right of The Last Dihedral.
Four bolts. The top is a bit runout, but the climbing remains moderate to easy in difficulty.
|By andy patterson|
From: Santa Barbara, CA
Sep 29, 2008
Once I figured out that you HAD to dyno past the first bolt, I laughed so hard that I had to come down and try the climb all over again. This pitch is truly unique.
|By Matthew Fienup|
From: Ventura, CA
Sep 30, 2008
Three more pitches (5.7, 5.9, easy fifth) will deposit you on the top of the Dome.
Mar 1, 2011
The line of bolts that angles right along the dyke and joins Just Barely at top is called Just Lovely. In my opinion, three stars and more quality than JB, which, as the description implies, is a one-move kind of deal.
|By Randy in Ridgecrest|
From: Inyokern, CA
Mar 26, 2011
The "Boing" isn't absolutely necessary. Static moves at about 12a gets you by the crux.
This is a good warm up for the really good climbs on this side of Dome.