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V-Max Traverse 

Just Another Pretty Face Variation 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 29'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Gary Clark
Page Views: 492
Submitted By: George Perkins on Apr 28, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
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The route is steep but thankfully it's short. A g...

Description 

Another steep but short climb at El Rito, this is the most natural (read: easiest) way to climb to the anchors for Just Another Pretty Face. This variation is about 4' to the right of the original route, making it a bit too squeezed relative to the original line, but otherwise it's perhaps an even better line than the original Pretty Face.

The crux comes at a reachy move getting to the 2nd bolt. At the last bolt, step left, which will put you above the line for Just Another Pretty Face, and go through the last pumpy section before clipping the chains.

The grade felt soft for even "El Rito 5.11" to me, but maybe it earns it if you stick strictly to the bolt line instead of following path of least resistance.

This climb is written up in Samet's Climbing 273 article on classic shorty sport climbs in New Mexico.

Location 

Bolt line on the right on the south face of the block.

Protection 

3 bolts to shared anchor


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By ZachS00
From: Denver, CO
Mar 20, 2009

On the right, just past the second bolt, is a very loose ball-shaped jug. Use caution.
By Bryan T
Nov 14, 2010

Good footwork and movement can soften up this route (though the holds are big enough to brute force it just as fun). There are more than enough feet around the second bolt 'crux' that even shorter people will have no issues; One in our group is about 5"3' and she had no problems landing the move. Don't avoid the route because of the reach.