Just Acquaintances 5.6
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 120 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.7 [details] |
| FA: | Tad Steel, Linda Jarret |
| Season: | spring and fall |
| Submitted By: | KyleAnderson on Aug 12, 2010 |
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Just Acquaintances in Lovers Leap
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Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>
Peregrine Falcons nest seasonally at Lover's Leap. During the closure period, please avoid the areas displayed on the map posted below. A closure will be in place at the center of the wall starting April 1, 2012 to September 30, 2012. A detailed listing of closed routes and any changes in the information regarding the peregrine falcons will be posted on the Eldorado National Forest website www.fs.fed.us/r5/eldorado. If you require addition information contact Susan Yasuda, District Wildlife Biologist on the Placerville Ranger District at 530-647-5311. Here's a map:
| 2009 Closure Map Submitted By: Amy Ansari on Jun 15, 2009
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This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
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Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment
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Description Follow the main crack in the center of the buttress and stay left when possible. The around the belay tree is loose so be careful. If you stay right the climb is more difficult and harder to protect.
Location The route is in the center of the buttress to the right of the Hogwild route and left of Accessory Dogs. Follows the main crack up and to the left. It seems best to climb up and walk off.
Protection pro to 3".
| Comments on Just Acquaintances |
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By splitclimber Sep 24, 2010 rating: 5.8-
| good climb but I'd say it's almost 5.8. I think supertopo has it as 5.6, but Carville has it right at 5.8. good pro. |
By SuperDave Jun 16, 2012
| I led both Hogwild and this climb yesterday. This climb is not as good as Hogwild, a bit mungy in places, and has somewhat tricky gear. For me the crux was about 50 feet off the ground. I found one or two places where only a hand jam provided a good handhold, but feet are mostly nice dikes, not much smearing or foot jamming needed. Lots of good rests from which to place gear. After the double cracks the route leads you to a bush that has two slings around it. We continued up to a total length of 170 feet to a very nice belay ledge with a tree behind it to sling. From there we went up and right to another tree (about 40 feet) with two slings as a rap station. Only do this with a 60 meter or longer rope. As you rap down, stay far left. It is a rope stretcher with a 60 meter to make it to the anchors of accessory dogs, which you can only see at the very end when you climb left over a flake. Frump there it is almost a full 30 meter to the ground. |
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