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Upper Security Risk
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"S" Buttress, The 
Cold Shot 
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Get Smart 
Hot Flyer 
Hot Wire 
Juice, The 
Just A Little Insecure 
Led Astray 
Plan B 
Pup 
S Buttress Direct 

Just A Little Insecure 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a [details]
FA: FA: Ken Trout 2/94, FFA: Henry Lester 4/94
Page Views: 538
Submitted By: Alan Nelson on Feb 2, 2002
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Just a Little Insecure.
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  • Description 

    This is the sweet arete on the left side of the alcove below "Plan B" and "Get Smart". Not stick-clipping the first bolt would give this route a solid R/X rating, as the climbing is thin, balancey, technical, and continuous right from the start above a jagged boulder landing. Letting go for the second and third clips requires delicate posturing in very strenuous positions. As an arete, it has the requisite blind moves around the corner. At the top, it kicks well past vertical with a huge reach to a match on a sloping jug. Don't be surprised if you don't flash this one - the sequence is solid, but inobvious. Quite entertaining, but definitely on the short side - at most half the height of "Plan B".


    Protection 

    Four bolts to a two-bolt anchor with rings. Stick clip the first bolt or die.



    Comments on Just A Little Insecure Add Comment
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    By SAL
    From: broomdigiddy
    Aug 18, 2008
    rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a

    R rating with out a stick clip.
    Not too bad though. I do not think you will die if you botch it. From the fall anyways.