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 ADVANCED
Upper Security Risk
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
"S" Buttress, The T 
Cold Shot S 
Cracking the Code S 
Crash Test Blondes S 
Get Smart T 
Hot Flyer S 
Hot Wire S 
Juice, The S 
Just A Little Insecure S 
Led Astray S 
Plan B S 
Pup S,TR 
S Buttress Direct T 

Just A Little Insecure 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: FA: Ken Trout 2/94, FFA: Henry Lester 4/94
Page Views: 600
Submitted By: Alan Nelson on Feb 2, 2002

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Just a Little Insecure.

Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This is the sweet arete on the left side of the alcove below "Plan B" and "Get Smart". Not stick-clipping the first bolt would give this route a solid R/X rating, as the climbing is thin, balancey, technical, and continuous right from the start above a jagged boulder landing. Letting go for the second and third clips requires delicate posturing in very strenuous positions. As an arete, it has the requisite blind moves around the corner. At the top, it kicks well past vertical with a huge reach to a match on a sloping jug. Don't be surprised if you don't flash this one - the sequence is solid, but inobvious. Quite entertaining, but definitely on the short side - at most half the height of "Plan B".

Protection 

Four bolts to a two-bolt anchor with rings. Stick clip the first bolt or die.


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By SAL
From: broomdigiddy
Aug 18, 2008
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

R rating with out a stick clip.
Not too bad though. I do not think you will die if you botch it. From the fall anyways.