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 ADVANCED
Careno Crag
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
A Swingin' Affair T 
Bale/Kramar route T,S 
Careno Corners T 
Cool Struttin' S 
Existential Exit T 
Exotic Dancer T 
Finders Keepers S 
Heave Ho T,S 
Just a Gigolo T 
Killer B's S 
Left Wing T 
Nubbin Grubbin' S 
Passing Lane T 
Pocketmeister S 
Pumpline T 
Regular Route T 
Super Freaky T 

Just a Gigolo 

YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 160'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Geoff Georges, Jessica Todd
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 364
Submitted By: geoff georges on May 19, 2014

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BETA PHOTO: Just a Gigolo, Swinging Affair, Exotic Dancer

Description 

Route starts to the far left of Swinging Affair and Exotic Dancer. You'll see a prominent roof.

First pitch is 100ft to bolted anchor. Fun pitch. Laybacking off secondary crack to roof. holds and feet appear where you need them at the roof. After turning the roof, continue on easier crack system to bolted anchor. Continue up 2p or rap.

Optional 2p is 60ft to another bolted anchor with a hard first move to easier climbing above.

Location 

See photo.
About 700 feet up hill from the Regular route. Or 400 feet past the Careno walk off.

Protection 

Gear to 3 inches.Mostly hand size. save a #3 or #4 for left side of roof traverse before swinging around to the ledge. There are some loose rocks inside the crack below the roof, wedged in, adds to the fun.


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