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 ADVANCED
Middle Earth
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Bobbin' for Hobbits S 
Breeze, The S 
Bump, The S 
Centennial S 
Delirious S 
Earth Angel S 
Elfin Warrior S 
Fireball S 
Grand Opening S 
Hobbitual Offender S 
Infectious S 
Irresistable S 
Just a Fantasy T 
Middle Earth S 
Planet Eater, The S 
Premonition S 
Pull Me Up S 
Red Hot S 
S'Blended S 
Silmarillion S 
War Of The Worlds S 
You Betchy It's Sketchy S 

Just a Fantasy 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b R

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 250'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: John Steiger, Peter Noebels
Page Views: 170
Submitted By: 1Eric Rhicard on Jun 7, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1)
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Description 

Not a good choice if other climbers are in the area due to rock that will come down despite your best efforts. First pitch is fun but has funky rock in places. You want a to be strong enough to avoid the funk and run it out a little. (A good thing to TR if you have done the first pitch of Planet Eater. Pitch ends at the anchors used at the top of Planet Eater. Second pitch climbs straight above the belay then angles right for a long way on unprotected 5.8. You will eventually gain the weakness with pro that leads to a big ugly chimney. At the top of this is a ledge that takes good pro or continue another 25 feet to bolts at the top. We went left a ways past some bolts then up a lichen covered section of rock.

Location 

Just right of Planet Eater.

Protection 

Gear to #3 Camalot.


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