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Corner on Pitch 2
The setting is beautiful, the stone varnished, the gear is where you want it, and you'll probably have the wall to yourself. In the Spring of 2010 my partner and I found a straight-sided stopper stamped "VB" (Paul Van Bettten?) and a Forest Titon stamped "PH" on the route. Evidence of the climb's seldom-done status.
There are 5 pitches, one of which is below average, but the other 4 are exceptional. All belays are bolted.
P1 - Begin with some runout 5.8 or 5.9 up corners and grooves just left of the obvious dihedral line. Move right into the corners and chimney. Step right at the top. 5.9 or 5.10-
P2 - Work straight up from the belay on RPs and small gear. At ~50 feet, step left into a clean left-facing corner. Climb the corner (crux) on RPs and good small gear. 5.11c, but certainly harder than the .11c on Cloud Tower and Lev29
P3 - straight up from the belay on runout 5.9 face climbing, or slightly right and then up, which a couple RP placements. Aim for the bolt and face climb up and left (5.10d) to a thin crack. After the crack, move left around a large block and belay from bolts on top. 5.10d
P4 - Follow a vegetated low-angle crack or runout arete straight up, passing a band of lighter/sandier rock, to the huge ledge. 5.8
P5 - Up the clean and steep hand crack in the flaring corner on the right. The crack widens and becomes lower angle. As the rock suddenly deteriorates, move left across blocky terrain to the final anchor. 5.10
Rap the route with a single 60m rope. After 2 rappels on Jupiter II anchors, move slightly left and rappel nearby "Challenger".
Jupiter II begins halfway between the huge LF-Corner of "Steep Space" and the cracks of Challenger. It's the first obvious crack system left of the huge corner.
2x cams from tips to hands, a single #2 and #3 BD. A good selection of nuts, RPs, or HB Offsets.
Pitch 1, last dihedral section.
|By John Roark|
Feb 19, 2012
We did this route on feb. 18 2012 it's great.
The only warning I have is on the last rap down challenger we got our rope stuck 3 times on the thin crack near the top of the second pitch on Challenger benighting us. I swung to the right and placed 2 nuts as directionals for the pull to prevent the rope from running in the crack. After that the rope got stuck just slightly and we were able to pull hard enough to get it unstuck. The first time I unstuck our rope i was able to see the remnants of a rope in the same crack system that someone must have cut to get down.
To be honest I'm not sure if it would be better just rapping Jupiter2 with a 70m and down climbing the last 20' or so. The anchors on Jupiter2 currently do have gear to rap off. Use your judgement. Good luck.
|By Josh Janes|
Jun 4, 2012
The lone pro bolt on the third pitch was replaced courtesy of the ASCA with 1/2" stainless hardware in 2012. Also, the first pitch anchor, which previously consisted of one good bolt and one bad one, has been updated. The two 3/8" studs from these replacements still need to be pulled/patched.
If you use and appreciate updated bolts in Red Rocks, consider a donation to the ASCA at www.safeclimbing.org.
|By Tim Wolfe|
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Mar 18, 2013
Beautiful exciting climbing on great rock (pitch 4 excepted). Due to complex gear and moves every pitch took some time to lead safely. I thought the first pitch required some very interesting zig-zagging and gear placements to stay "safe." Pitch 2 had a very stout transition into the corner - probably better to get gear high, climb down a bit and do the transition then climb up past your overhead gear on tips lieoffs. Pitch 3 is exciting and again thoughtful and pitch 5 is straight on steep crack climbing. We were able to rap straight down with an 80 meter rope.
|By Rob Fielding|
From: Las Vegas, NV
Mar 20, 2013
Nice work Tim! I attempted the second pitch a few times and just couldn't make that transition into the corner. A very bouldery/intricate section. The corner looks amazing.
The first pitch can be rapped w 70 w a 10 feet of easy 5th class downclimbing.