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Bolts (and nasty pitons) protect the bottom cruxy moves, then continue up sparse crack systems to gain the crux transition into the upper portion of New River Gunks.
Unbelieveably fun moves up the bottom part, and perfect vertical hard crack climbing above.
Super-fun, this route deserves more attention.
Just right of New River Gunks on East side of Giant Flake
A bolt and crap pitons for bottom section
bomber red alien and #7 nut below crux, run out until almost at anchors.
Anchors are hard to find on lower ledge right of New River Gunks anchors and down a little.
|By Chris Whisenhunt|
From: Fayetteville, WV
Aug 21, 2012
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b
Just climbed this and was able to find some nut placements and a red tcu spot up high. No way this is PG-13.
From: Vandalia, Appalachia
Jun 12, 2013
Not pg13. Or 11c. I just finished on the New River Gunks anchors. Fun, but super short.