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Junkyard Wall
Routes Sorted
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Ann's Revenge T 
Antropov's Cold T,TR 
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Contortionist, The T 
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Entertainer, The T,TR 
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Four Sheets to the Wind T 
Frigidator TR 
Jumping Jack Flash T 
JunkYard Dog (JYD) T 
Keep it Tight but Don't Give Me AIDS T,TR 
Lapping the Sap T 
Mr. Ed T 
New River Gunks T,TR 
New Yosemite T,TR 
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JunkYard Dog (JYD) 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 75'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Horst, Evler '87
Page Views: 1,106
Submitted By: Ladd Raine on Apr 10, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
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BETA PHOTO: JunkYard Dog

Description 

Bolts (and nasty pitons) protect the bottom cruxy moves, then continue up sparse crack systems to gain the crux transition into the upper portion of New River Gunks.

Unbelieveably fun moves up the bottom part, and perfect vertical hard crack climbing above.

Super-fun, this route deserves more attention.

Location 

Just right of New River Gunks on East side of Giant Flake

Protection 

A bolt and crap pitons for bottom section
bomber red alien and #7 nut below crux, run out until almost at anchors.
Anchors are hard to find on lower ledge right of New River Gunks anchors and down a little.


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By Matthew Carpenter
Apr 3, 2015

Just got back on this yesterday, 'ol rusty ain't there no more and the bolts have been replaced with glue ins. The PG13 probably comes from the decision-making after the second bolt to either place (good gear) from a mildly insecure position or just punch it for the mantle. If you didn't place and you
did blow the mantle it'd be a fun ride, but a decent belayer would keep you well off the dirt (So, PG). Also, you can skip the crux move off the dirt by reaching on from the block behind (makes it ~10d). Get a spot for the opening crux, you wouldn't want to blow it and fall back onto said block.
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