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Elevation: 1,443 ft
GPS: 38.08477, -81.08144
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 156,454 total · 1,246/month
Shared By: Chris Whisenhunt on Nov 25, 2013
Admins: Pat Goodman, Chris Whisenhunt, Amanda Smith, Pnelson
Warning Access Issue: NO DRONES ON NATIONAL PARKLANDS DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

All day sun on most routes and a minimal approach, several easy routes, and numerous anchors make this a busy area. Be prepared to fight with guides and organized groups trying to top rope all the classics on weekends.

The main part of the junkyard wall has several great routes, but the cliff top has been killed by easy access to anchor bolts. The upside is that almost every other wall at the New has been saved from a lot of traffic.

The zealous area is right past the bouldering cave and is not to be missed for the namesake route.

The dog and cat walls are a 15 minute hike away and will be considerably less crowded.

Getting There Suggest change

From the parking lot head down the left trail to reach Junkyard South. Originally this trail went thru a typical Appalachian refuse pile. It has mostly been cleaned up.

62 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Junkyard Area

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 47
Cave Routes 1 and 2
TR
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 333
New River Gunks
Trad, TR
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 194
Jumping Jack Flash
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 11
Labrador Reliever
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 515
New Yosemite
Trad, TR
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 60
The Contortionist
Trad, TR
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 52
V-Slot
Trad
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 360
Four Sheets to the Wind
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 244
The Entertainer
Trad, TR
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 194
Team Jesus
Trad
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 177
Rapscallion's Blues
Trad
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 58
Realignment
Trad, TR
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 46
Zealous
Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 72
Stuck In Another Dimension
Trad
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 76
Reachers of Habit
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Cave Routes 1 and 2 Junkyard Wall
 47
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b TR
New River Gunks Junkyard Wall
 333
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, TR
Jumping Jack Flash Junkyard Wall
 194
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Labrador Reliever Cat Cliff
 11
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
New Yosemite Junkyard Wall
 515
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, TR
The Contortionist Junkyard Wall
 60
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, TR
V-Slot Junkyard Wall
 52
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Four Sheets to the Wind Junkyard Wall
 360
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad
The Entertainer Junkyard Wall
 244
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad, TR
Team Jesus Junkyard Wall
 194
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Rapscallion's Blues Junkyard Wall
 177
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad
Realignment Junkyard Wall
 58
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad, TR
Zealous Zealous Area
 46
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad
Stuck In Another Dimension Junkyard Wall
 72
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
Reachers of Habit Junkyard Wall
 76
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
More Classic Climbs in Junkyard Area »

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