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Wipeyur Buttress
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Junk in the Trunk 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 704
Submitted By: Adam B on May 27, 2011

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Paula leading Junk In The Trunk, 5.9. On the slabb...

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Description 

This route is on the lower left side of the buttress and if you follow the trail from mm 10 you end up at the base. It climbs the second set of bolts on the south slab. Nice views and fun climbing.

From the guidebook: "Begin on the lower left side of the slab near an indentation. This route features some of the thinnest slab climbing on the buttress."

Protection 

8 bolts.


Photos of Junk in the Trunk Slideshow Add Photo
Midway up.
Midway up.
Starting up Junk in the Trunk.
Starting up Junk in the Trunk.
Low on the route.
Low on the route.
Nearing the top.
Nearing the top.
Matt leading Junk.
Matt leading Junk.

Comments on Junk in the Trunk Add Comment
Show which comments
By Old and Busted
From: Centennial, CO
May 30, 2011

Great job on the route description, really compelling. And informative too. Why did you bother?
By Glenn Schuler
From: Monument, Co.
Aug 6, 2011

It's almost as good as his entry for the buttress itself... nary a word on how to get there other than buy the book. Oh, and it's somewhere around MM 10. Super helpful, he's got skilz....
By Carl H.
Sep 3, 2011

Good warm-up route for the area.
By BameR
From: golden, co
Oct 24, 2011

A little help with the description.... Instead on going to Devil's Head campgroup and parking area, stay right on Rampart Range Road, drive past the radio tower (on the west side, this is where radio head is), and before the 90 degree right hand switchback, there is a parking area for only 4-6 cars on the east side of the road with a little parking sign (about MM10 on CO 67). Descend the trail to the east into the gully, follow the cairns until you reach the south slab of the buttress, look for a cairn on the slab... descend the stairs and follow the trail to the southeast corner of the buttress just west of an aspen grove. The entire east face is bolted, I believe the guidebook has 24 routes on the east face from 5.9-5.13+. This is why you might want to get a guidebook. Also, from here you have easy access to the Chickenhead Wall, The Jungle, The Headstone, etc.... Very neat place with great views and awesome rock.
By Bill Olszewski
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Jun 14, 2012
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

Found it real hard to stay on the bolt line. Some of the stances are really thin, so I crossed back and forth, following the weaknesses in the rock.