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The Confluence
Routes Sorted
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Baby Wipe Slab T 
Better Safe than Sorry T 
Crimson King T 
Ghetto Booty T 
Gunswinger T 
I'm No Sports Climber T 
Junk in the Trunk T 
Qi Wah Wah T 
Salty Dog Arete T 
Smashmouth T 
Take Back The Rainbow T 
Unsorted Routes:

Junk in the Trunk 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 240'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Joe French and Bryan Bird 2006 March 27
Page Views: 1,201
Submitted By: raygay on May 29, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
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BETA PHOTO: Junk in the Trunk beta. Picture taken from lower o...

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Description 

Pitch 1 starts with about 20 feet of a nice hand crack in a small left facing dihedral but then transitions into a wide groove extending straight up past large huecos on the right for another 60 feet. Features on the face provide opportunities for a variety of moves through the crux as the groove narrows and steepens before squeezing through a notch. Look for two bolted hangers with rap rings above a comfy blocky shelf up and to the right after the notch. Pitch 2 goes right a little and up following another crack system to the base of a beautiful dark brown block which offers the choice of going straight up a crack for a 5.9 variation or drifting right to follow the slanting crack with good holds and protection and leads to a small ledge with two more bolted hangers and rap rings. This anchor is at the top of Barely Legal.

Location 

Junk in the Trunk is found about 200 feet along the trail after turning the corner into the Confluence Area with its west-facing wall. The start in the left facing dihedral and the dark chocolate brown block at the top of the route are both fairly conspicuous. You can descend in two raps on a single 60 meter rope from the top of Barely Legal, using an intermediate ledge and rap anchor, as the base of the wall is a little higher at that point.

Protection 

Cams sized 1/2" to 3". Some doubles in the 1-1/2" to 2-1/2" sizes may be useful. Stoppers fit well in several places.


Photos of Junk in the Trunk Slideshow Add Photo
Overview of the face of Confluence area. Green line shows where Junk in the Trunk is. Photo taken from main road.
BETA PHOTO: Overview of the face of Confluence area. Green lin...

Comments on Junk in the Trunk Add Comment
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By awiseclimber
Dec 10, 2013
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Climbed it 12/2/13 and it was a blast. Good protection on quality rock. The first pitch is significantly longer than the second pitch.
(P2) Get into the crack immediately. Directly above the anchor is a very large, very loose rock. If you get in the crack, you'll avoid it.