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This is the most direct line up to the big juniper tree on Juniper Ledge. These are full 50 m pitches.
p1: connect obvious crack systems while negotiating considerable foliage on the way to Juniper Ledge. 2-bolt anchor on the right side of Juniper Ledge. It is probably better to choose one of the other routes that ends on Juniper Ledge, such as Chile Verde or Refritos.
p2: fun pitch; move left above a big flake and climb the dihedral/gully that passes the formidable Juniper Overhang roof on its right side. Use some stemming moves to overcome the top of the gully and finish on exposed fun climbing to the top. Build a gear anchor or trend left to use the 2-bolt anchor at the top of Bring Me a Bucket.
The start (to the right of the Juniper Overhang route) is near the bottom end of a downed log below the large juniper tree on Juniper Ledge. For the descent, climb up and left from the top for about 3 minutes until you see cairns for the good descent trail down the backside.
trad rack of stoppers and cams to 3", 8 double length runners.
|Comments on Juniper Direct
|By Howard Snell|
From: Belen, New Mexico
Jun 15, 2011
Climbed 2nd pitch as finish to El Faralito. Once past the small roof, we just kept going up the gully - upper end of that stretch was 4th / low 5th. Eventually came to a set of bolts for anchor at top of gully. These bolts were not those for "Bring me a Bucket" and appeared to be left of the bolts for Chili Verde (which were slightly higher).