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 ADVANCED
The Amphitheater
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2nd Pinnacle, NW Corner T 
2nd Pinnacle, Upper East Face Right T 
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Direct West Bench [formerly listed as variation] T 
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East Bench Dihedral T 
Finger Crack (onT-Zero) T,TR 
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Inside S. Face (1st pinnacle) T,TR 
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Macropsychotic T 
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Now and Zen T,TR 
Outside East Face T 
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Slot [formerly listed at Direct West Bench] T 
South Face Direct (1st Pinnacle) TR 
South Face Left (1st Pinnacle) T,TR 
South Rib (2nd Pinnacle) T 
Southeast Arete (1st pinnacle) T 
Standard Inside East Face T 
T-Zero West Face T 
Tyrolean Traverse TR 
West Bench Dihedral T,TR 
West Face (of T-Zero) T,TR 

Juniper Crack (1st pinacle) 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.4 French: 4a Ewbanks: 12 UIAA: IV ZA: 10 British: VD 3c [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 600
Submitted By: Tony B on Oct 6, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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  • Some crags in this area are closed 1 February to 31 July: MORE INFO >>>
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  • Description 

    Good route for taking beginners on. Climb the East bench Dihedral to reach the slot between the first pinacle and the East bench. move as far right as possible between the East Bench and the First Pinacle. Continue to move to the right past a broad groove with a single bolt and through a mild overhang with big holds, just below a small juniper tree.

    Climb to the top of the first pinacle by passing to the right side below said tree and then up.

    It's a nice pitch, but not great for the beginning 5.6 leader. The gear runs out prior to the crux and so it is probably a bit hairy if it is at the leader's limit. Still, exposure, good rock, and a nice summit.

    Descend by scrambling West and then North or by rapping from one of the several fixed anchors up top.


    Protection 

    A few pieces of this and that, perhaps with a few long slings for slinging knobs and threading holes. There are a few moves that might be thumpers for inexperienced leaders.



    Comments on Juniper Crack (1st pinacle) Add Comment
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    By William McGehee
    From: Choctaw, OK
    Nov 20, 2002

    Good Lord... Four routes, two of which seem to say the EXACT same thing... Can we consolidate here? Just a thought. The moves to the first bolt ARE rather committing. It is solid though. Just don't fall ;_) the Juniper Crack is a good but difficult one Tony. Perhaps TAKE but let's not have beginner 5.6-ers lead this one? Just a thought.-WM

    By Tony B
    From: Around Boulder, CO
    Nov 21, 2002

    Yep, pretty similar routes, pretty similar descriptions, William. I looked through them and can't find any that say the exact same thing though :(

    [Consolidation] would be fine. What will you do though- just add 8 names, 4 [different] dates and a bunch of different descriptions to one link? Seems easiest to just have them all listed so any individual one can be looked up. Let's say for a moment that I wanted to know about McCrumm's Crack and logged on... [would] I know to go looking under Juniper Crack's title, or would I look for a link to the name McCrumm's?

    You commented: "the Juniper Crack is a good but difficult one, Tony. Perhaps TAKE but let's not have beginner 5.6-ers lead this one? Just a thought." I had said: "It's a nice pitch, but not great for the beginning 5.6 leader. The gear runs out prior to the crux and so it is probably a bit hairy if it is at the leader's limit."

    It looks like we agree on that thought, so I'm not sure what the problem is.

    By George Bell
    From: Boulder, CO
    Nov 21, 2002

    William, I'm not sure exactly what you are suggesting. It makes sense (to me) to have one description per route, even if the routes are 6' apart. However, the amphitheatre area is complex and bound to be confusing. It doesn't help that all the climbs here have been entered under a single rock, rather than having "First Pinnacle", "Second Pinnacle", etc. entered as separate rocks. Photos would help as well.

    In regard to this route, I'm confused by the reference to a bolt. I remember going from the top of the E Bench to the Juniper Tree,and then up, passing no bolts, but perhaps I missed it or my memory is poor. But none of the guides mention a bolt on this route. Is this the same bolt that is on the SE Arete route?

    A more interesting way to do this route (which triples its length) is to start from outside the Amphitheatre up the NE Chimney route. After passing the first chockstone, you will be more or less directly below the juniper tree. Climb the right face of the chimney over a small overhang, passing the juniper tree and continue to the top. This pitch is about 130' long.

    By George Bell
    From: Boulder, CO
    Nov 21, 2002

    One more thing ... most people consider this route as beginning from the top of the East Bench. This may explain the duplicate part of Tony's route descriptions, which include the E Bench Dihedral. It may also explain the bolt, there is a bolt near the top of the E Bench Dihedral. If you start this route from the top of the East Bench you will not go past this bolt (which is below you). Makes sense now to me, I don't think the descriptions need to be changed.

    By Tony B
    From: Around Boulder, CO
    Nov 21, 2002

    "Continue to move to the right past a broad groove with a single bolt and through a mild overhang with big holds, just below a small juniper tree. "

    That could be made more clear, I suppose... "Continue to move to the right past the 'Southaast Arete', whereupon you will see a broad groove containing a single bolt about 5 meters overhead. Continue to traverse futher right and through a mild overhang with big holds, just below a small juniper tree."

    By William McGehee
    From: Choctaw, OK
    Nov 24, 2002

    Tony, George, I didn't mean to really get anyone worked up over this thing. What I said was mostly in jest. I agree that specific climbs require their own information Tony, and George I agree with you that 6' or less can define many climbs. I learned to climb at Carderock in MD. There, you can have a three foot wide section of rock with as many routes running from 5.2-9+... My notion was to imply that one might say the East side of the first pinnacle from the top of the East bench and up is a variable climb with many options and routes to be explored. Either way, climbing is fun, the Amptheatre is beautiful, and we're all lucky to have the opportunity to enjoy it! :-D

    By Anonymous Coward
    May 4, 2004

    Great route to take a first date on: get's them a little haired-out/excited and short to a fun summit. Zero approach.