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 ADVANCED
a. The Uberfall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
69 T 
Apoplexy T 
BB Route T 
Birthday Biscuit Boy T 
Black Fly T 
Boston T,TR 
Brat Direct, The T 
Bridal Path T 
Bunny T 
CC Route T 
Charie TR 
Clover T 
Coronary T,TR 
Crimson Corner T 
Das Wiggles T 
DD Route T 
Dirty Chimney T 
Dirty Gerdie T 
Double Chin T 
Double Clutch T 
Easy Keyhole T 
Executioner aka That's Horsesh** T.C., The T 
Eyebrow T 
Eyesore T 
Fancy Idiot T 
Fitschen's Folly T,TR 
Flake, The T,TR 
Handy Andy T 
Harvard T 
Heel Hook and Hack-it T 
Herdie Gerdie T 
Horseman T 
Hudson's Boulder Problem, aka Trashcan Overhang T,TR 
Jacob's Ladder T,TR 
Junior T,TR 
Katzenjammer T 
Ken's Crack T 
Keyhole T 
Laurel T 
Low Exposure T 
Lower Eaves T 
Mitty Mouse  T 
Nice 5.9 Climb T 
Nice Crack Climb T 
No Picnic T 
No Solution T,TR 
Nosedive T 
Nurdie Gerdie (aka Dogs in Heat) T 
Phoebe T,TR 
Red Cabbage T 
Red Cabbage Right T 
Retribution T 
Rhododendron T 
Shit or Go Blind T 
Shitty Mitty T,TR 
Short and Simple T 
Short Job T,TR 
Sonja T 
Squiggles T 
Squiggles Direct T,TR 
Stupid Crack T 
Suderiferous: 5.8 variation T 
Sudoriferous T 
Susie A T 
Trapped Like a Rat T 
Uberfall Descent T 
Unknown TR 
Walter Mitty T 
Yale T 
Unsorted Routes:

Junior 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a R

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Early 1960s: Bob Gilmore
Page Views: 976
Submitted By: Michael G on Jul 19, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (16)
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BETA PHOTO: Working through the initial moves. You can see Lau...

Description 

Climb the face 10' left of Laurel up to (crux) and past a bulge, then step left and up crack to chain anchors. The arete to the left, or any section of Laurel, are "off". The tough crux is pretty much right off the ground.

Location 

The face left of Laurel, in the Uberfall area of the Trapps.

Protection 

No pro to protect early moves. You can TR using Laurel's chain anchors and a directional.


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Junior
Junior

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By Alicia Sokolowski
From: Brooklyn, NY
Apr 18, 2011

I think this route is kind of a one move wonder, and that one move is really hard. The rest of the route is 5.7 at best. The bottom (hard part) is interesting enough.
By gblauer
From: Wayne, PA
Sep 22, 2012

One move wonder. It's a technical, balancey move particularly for a shorty. Once you make the move the climb backs way down.
By Brandon S
From: Weehawken, NJ
Oct 30, 2013

I agree with the "one move wonder" comments regarding difficulty. But the climb has great movement throughout. Definitely a worthwhile climb.
By kenr
Jul 19, 2014

Interesting crux sequence. Worthwhile as top-rope with directional from Laurel anchor bolts.
(Not surprisingly, much more difficult if much shorter than 5ft7in / 170cm with normal reach.)
By Jay Harrison
Nov 6, 2014
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R

Historical Footnote: Bob Gilmore is 5'9", which makes that reach pretty desperate...but he has a mythological wingspan of 6'6", putting that key crimp well within his grasp.
Better known for his FA of The Sliding Board with Willie Crowther, Bob also explored a few Adirondack crags back in the day.
By JSH
Administrator
Nov 6, 2014

Thanks for the note, Jay. I'm 5'6+" with a negative ape index, and .... yeah, harder than 5.9.