|Type:||Trad, 1 pitch, 75'|
|Consensus:||YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a [details]|
|Submitted By:||David Kider on Jul 28, 2010|
|Comments on Junior Varsity||Add Comment|
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By Jeffrey Gagliano
From: Pennsburg, PA
Aug 22, 2010
I dunno, I just got on this route on 8/21/2010. I just lead Certified Raw so I was warmed up. This is no 5.5. The opening sequence is burly and requires significant smears. And once established above the opening moves, it's still quite tenuous. The slab moves are very thin. And the final moves up the head wall are also stout.
The vegetation at the base testifies to few if any recent ascents. No wonder.
5.8 easily, and the case could be made for 5.9. Try it and see.
By Janine Connell
Aug 23, 2010
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
|I agree with Jeff. I just tried to lead this route. I had just successfully lead Ladder (5.7) and followed Fastest Gun and thought this would be an easy end of the trip. I got shut down on the first move and then toproped it. I am glad I did - the slab seemed just as difficult and the bolts are very run out. In fact, if you are short, there is a tricky move to get to the third bolt and you are easily looking at a 30 footer if you miss it. In my opinion, this is not a good climb for those new to leading and is certainly no 5.5. I'd go with 5.8/5.9.|
By Tim Dufrane
Jul 5, 2012
|5.8 seems about right for the opening move. After that it's probably 5.5-5.6 slab climbing. The last move to the anchors is a little bit sketchy, but protected by a nice bolt placement. Overall a fun climb, and one of my first trad leads. If you're a pretty confident climber, this is fine for a starter lead. However, if you fall near the second or third bolt, you're going for quite a ride. Make sure you place a piece in the crack at the opening move - it will absolutely protect you from falling into the picker bushes right under the ledge.|
Aug 3, 2012
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
|Stiff 5.5. Deff. no 5.5. With that said great climbing really enjoyed the route.|