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The Egg
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Coffee and Cigarettes S 
Egg Arete S 
Egg Face S 
Egghead S 
Green Eggs and Ham S 
Junglework TR 
Shell Shock S 
Sign Language S 
Sunnyside Up S 
This is your Brain on Drugs S 


YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

Type:  TR, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 589
Submitted By: Paul Rezucha on Aug 16, 2003

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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BETA PHOTO: View from the trail when you first get to the beac...


This route uses the same start as Egghead. Just after 2nd bolt, move up and right about 5' and then straight up steep face to anchors. I am not sure if the one good hold on the base of the ramp of Egghead is valid but to me this seems the appropriate way to do the route. Very sustained fingery moves on small but good sharp holds. At places, feet are very thin. An alternative start which then makes a very straight up route is to use the start of This is your Brain on Drugs. At first bolt, go up and slightly left to base of Egghead ramp. Good rock and hard continuous moves makes this a satisfying route. Even the last move to the bucket right of the anchors is a challenge.


Junglework uses the same anchors as Egghead. A quick lead up the Unknown 5.6 route around the corner to left is the easiest way to set up this toprope.

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By KP Ariza
Jul 13, 2011

This top rope actually climbs up to the ramp and does the moves to get standing on the ramp. Then, step off of the far right side of the ramp and continue straight up.
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